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Hanoi

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1. Hoan Kiem Lake

Despite the fact the weather can be rather sticky, Hanoi is a highly walkable city, and the odds are you'll find yourself returning to its centrepiece again and again as you get your bearings. The name (which means 'Lake of the Returned Sword') comes from the story of Emperor Le Loi, who led a war against Vietnam's Chinese rulers in the 15th century, and whose gratitude to the spirit of the lake after 10 years of fighting is commemorated by a three-tiered pavilion on a tiny island in its centre. There's also a picturesque temple reached by an arched red bridge at the lake's northern end. Hanoians come to Hoan Kiem to stroll around its perimeter park, play chess and canoodle with their sweethearts.

2. Take to the road

Sadly, Hanoi's cycle rickshaws are strictly for bewildered-looking package tourists these days. Do as the locals do and hop on a motorcycle taxi (xe om) for a breezy break from walking when you're feeling the heat. The city's traffic is chaotic, and you'd be well advised to wear a helmet if you're offered one, although the unhurried pace of the swarms of motorbikes and scooters means it's not as perilous as it may at first appear. Alternatively, rent a motorbike (below centre) yourself (no licence, no problem) or, if you don't mind breaking a sweat, hire a bicycle.

3. Street eats

Vietnamese cuisine is some of the world's most distinctive and there's no shortage of mouth-watering morsels on offer in Hanoi, often right on the pavement. A street-food tour with a guide is an entertaining crash course in local culinary culture. Tours start with a typical breakfast (pho - the country's ubiquitous noodle soup, with beef, chicken or pork) or lunch (Hanoi speciality bun cha - pork meatballs in an aromatic broth, eaten with cold rice noodles, mint and other fresh herbs) before moving on to Hom wet market, Hanoi's biggest, where your guide will give you the inside story on what goes into local cuisine while you sample dishes and snacks at your leisure from the stalls and hawkers.

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