Goat's cheese isn't something for the novice. In fact, one of its varieties - the crottin - is named after the pungent 'droppings' the cheese is said to resemble as it ages. Even when fresh and relatively mild, the cheese has a tangy flavour that many people find unpalatable.

France makes the most varieties of goat's cheese, and many are marked as AOC (appellation d'origine controlee). The cheese is often called by its French name, chevre (the word for goat), even though it's made in many other countries too. When fresh (unaged), the cheese is snowy white and smooth. When aged it becomes firm, chalky, pungent and sharp. The basic preparation of chevre involves coagulating milk (raw or pasteurised) and draining the curds, then flavouring and moulding them into shapes (such as logs, discs or pyramids). Then they are eaten fresh or left to mature in temperature- and humidity-controlled conditions. The exterior can be coated, with fine ash or herbs for example, or treated so it develops a soft, edible rind (like camembert or brie), and can be dried to become as firm as cheddar.

Fresh goat's cheese is mild enough to be served in sweet preparations (it's delicious with fresh fruit) as well as savoury; aged varieties are best enjoyed with a glass of wine.