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Bali moves on, but ghosts still linger

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I was close by when it happened. I rushed to the scene soon after the blast and helped with the rescue operations. Sometimes I still think about it.'

Wayan Wasista, 42, is the village chief of Legian, a neighbourhood adjacent to Kuta, Bali's main tourist spot. Nowadays, tourists move around the area lazily and the town is back to its buzzing best after the slump that followed the bombings of 2002 and 2005. But for Mr Wayan, and many others like him, memories and fears linger.

Six years ago today, Paddy's Bar was blown to splinters together with the Sari Club, a nightclub on the opposite side of Jalan Legian, the busiest street in Kuta. In all, 202 people died in the blasts, including 11 Hong Kong residents. Jemaah Islamiah (JI), an Indonesia-based terrorist organisation, was blamed for the attack and Bali was drawn into the age of Islamist terrorism.

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On October 2, 2005, three bombs again painted the island with blood. The first two ripped apart the Nyoman Cafe and the Menega at Jimbaran beach, a popular resort about 18km south of Kuta. The third exploded in the Raja steakhouse, a busy middle-budget restaurant in Kuta Square. Twenty-four people died in the blasts.

Time has healed most of the island's visible scars. Paddy's Bar has moved to another address on Legian Street and the site it occupied is now a clothing store. The Sari Club never reopened and its old site remains abandoned. A large memorial stone engraved with the names of the 202 victims is a permanent reminder of the atrocity. The Jimbaran beach area has been rebuilt, taking on a more upmarket look.

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Mysticism, fatalism and pragmatism are ubiquitous in Bali's daily life, a small Hindu island slotted in the middle of the vast, mostly Muslim Indonesian archipelago.

Some people who work at night where the bombs exploded say ghosts of the deceased are still hovering in an in-between world, full of hatred and confusion.

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