Mezzanine level, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2733 8750

FARE Authentic fare from Italy's coastal regions. AMBIENCE Upmarket but friendly, with warm decor and colourful Murano glass sculptures. Large windows let in an abundance of natural light by day and the twinkling lights across Victoria Harbour by night. COST HK$700 without drinks. WHO TO BRING Good for small family celebrations, a romantic meal or dinner with friends. TURN-ONS The restaurant balances upscale dining with a relaxed atmosphere and stylish but comforting decor. The food is high quality and unpretentious, and all pasta is homemade. The chickpea soup with mussels to start was just the right thickness and the light taste of the chick peas complemented the mussels well. The T-bone steak was enormous and cooked exactly the way we wanted. We ordered two desserts and they brought a third on the house, and each mouthful of chocolate almond cake and strawberry cake with fresh strawberries and cream transported us to a sunny Tuscan villa. TURN-OFFS The waiter was quite insistent with his recommendations, which were always more expensive options, but they turned out to be well judged, especially the wine. The Wagyu rib-eye, which was so tender it didn't need cutting with a knife, had too much fat at the edges and, at HK$640/300 grams, we were disappointed. DRINKS A good list of wine from around the world.