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Historical value

Prudence Lui

Built in 1870, the Clube Militar de Macau was historically a members-only cultural and recreational centre for military officers. In 1995 after a full revamp, it opened its restaurant to the public. If you are looking for traditional Portuguese food situated in colonial glory, this is the epitome of old Macau. The coral-coloured colonial club can be found at 795 Avenida da Praia Grande which is the street right behind the lavish Grand Lisboa.

The dining halls retain a historical interior with tall ceilings, whirring fans, arched windows and displays of antique Chinese dishware. This is the atmosphere and grandeur of old Macau. While diners nowadays are spoiled with choices in town, what differentiates Clube Militar de Macau is its historical value.

Only certain parts of the building are open to the public. Non-members are welcome to dine in Portuguese and Macanese style in the old-fashioned dining hall. The iconic bar area opposite the restaurant is for members only.

Apart from local Portuguese patrons, the restaurant is popular with Chinese and Japanese tourists. Food-wise, it's best to stick to the classics, and recommendations include traditional cabbage soup with sausages, dried codfish with hot olive oil and garlic, African chicken and roast veal steak. A captain told me that codfish gets soaked for 24 hours and drained dry before cooking.

The lunch buffet is a favourite while the set dinner menu offers an array of genuine Portuguese cuisine. Just as importantly, there is a list of top-quality Portuguese wines.

While the ambience is historic, service is distinctly modern with waiters using gadgets such as handheld electronic devices to ensure speed and accuracy.

With its long tradition and historical background, there are some in-house rules such as the strict dress code. Guests are requested to leave rucksacks or parcels at the reception desk. No photos are allowed in the dining room.

Advance booking is highly recommended for non-members to avoid disappointment.

Time: noon to 3pm and 7pm-11pm

Price: Budget, starting at US$20

Address: Avenida da Praia Grande 975

Telephone: (853) 2871 4000

When to go: Daily, noon-3pm and 7pm-11pm

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