Fledgling shoe designer has world at his feet
With economies everywhere contracting and retailers taking a clobbering, it might seem a dicey time to launch a high-end designer shoe collection. But, as it turns out for Jerome Chouinard-Rousseau, it has proved fortuitous.
The Canadian-born designer (far right), whose eponymous Jerome C Rousseau collection was unveiled in July and hits Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong next month, is having a remarkable run for a fledgling independent shoemaker. Since its official unveiling, the collection has been snapped up by Barneys in New York, Fred Segal Feet in Los Angeles, Holt Renfrew in Canada, the Wynn Hotel in Las Vegas, Smalto in Rome and the influential luxe retail site Net-a-Porter. In addition to Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, the boutique's sister stores in Dubai and Riyadh will be carrying the collection.
From his studio near the coastal area of Playa del Rey, not far from Los Angeles, the Quebecer dreams up fanciful women's shoes that are rich and eclectic, their peep toes and dramatic heels in keeping with the feminine mood of the moment.
The Hong Kong launch will include nine of Chouinard-Rousseau's key styles, in colours such as gold, black, poison green and lipstick pink, culled from his spring 2009 collection. His signature pump - yes, one season in, he already has a signature - is a shoe featuring swathes of four blazing colours. There's also the Style Saga, an intricate strappy sandal with a natural wood heel and the Aurora (below), which is a 60s-inspired model in green silk trimmed with gold leather.
'It's exciting to be able to reach out to customers in Hong Kong - it's a city that I love and I am inspired by how dynamic it is,' says Chouinard-Rousseau.
A graduate from London's Cordwainers College - the same place that turned out designer Jimmy Choo - Chouinard-Rousseau is also the former creative director of Italian brand Isabella Fiore at its Los Angeles design headquarters, and has worked with Matthew Williamson, John Richmond and John Rocha. He draws his inspiration from sources as varied as the London nightlife scene to European architecture and American pop culture.
His penchant for design took hold as he watched a music video back in the day of house/dance group Deee-Lite, members of which swayed in dramatic retro shoes.
Today, however, Chouinard-Rousseau is enjoying his own moment in the spotlight, although he is watching that he doesn't become a victim of overexposure.
'I'd like to ensure that the label is always 'under the radar', always a hot discovery for new customers,' he says. 'I prefer to be featured in a few doors, but to ensure they are the right doors, and to grow the label with these retailers.'
He has a specific woman in mind when putting together his collection, a woman who can be found as easily in Paris as in Shanghai (given his criteria, less so in Riyadh). 'She has a dozen lovers and she loves dancing to her favourite songs in front of her bedroom mirror,' he says, laughing.
'Kidding aside, the Rousseau girl is confident, she falls in love with beautiful things and is emotional with her choices. She is smart and keen on discovering new designers.'
It's a definitive point of view embraced by the brand - one that ensures Chouinard-Rousseau focuses on keeping the collection compact, selective and directional.
'The shoes are distinctive and feminine without being obvious,' he says. 'I want to create modern collections that reflect the key influences that inspired me. I like designs that have an effortless simplicity yet look distinctive.'
He endeavours to put out styles that elongate the leg, and that are so dramatic the eye is drawn to an apparently lithe limb.
Chouinard-Rousseau, who's putting the finishing touches on his autumn 2009 collection, says he's going for something a little edgier.
'There is something a little tougher about it, a little Victorian almost, with lots of curves and geometry,' he says, adding that his surprising influences this time around include images from the late 70s of singer Kate Bush, as well as a French singing duo from the 80s called Elli et Jacno.
However, he says, the collection will encompass modern and chic colours - red, grey, purple, deep blue, and more gold. 'It's a fun collection with some humour to it.'
