Cuisine: Seafood with an emphasis on oysters, and grilled dishes.

Ambience: Unflattering blue fluorescent lights, including those around a wall-hung wine-display cabinet, will set you on edge. The large television playing music videos compounds the torture-chamber effect.

Price: About HK$700 per person without drinks and before adding the service charge.

Pros: The staff made mistakes but they were willing to please. Much thought went into food presentation.

Cons: We were disappointed to be told we had to order two days in advance for the preserved crab with nine herbs, although this may have been one of several instances of miscommunication. Some mains are generous; others less so.

Recommended: Come here for the oysters, which are served with two dips: red wine in vinegar and sake with the Japanese citrus fruit yuzu. On the Friday evening we visited, 16 varieties of oyster were available. For those flummoxed by what's what, there's a special menu explaining what to expect from, say, La Belle de Quilberon oysters (HK$816 for 12), which are deliciously briny, or Colchesters (HK$480 for 12) from Britain. My main dish of grilled scallops and risotto (above; HK$148) was bursting with flavour but a larger serving would have been appreciated. The lamb (HK$198), accompanied by vegetables roasted with truffle-oil, got the thumbs up for its tenderness.

What else? We ordered 12 Kumamoto oysters but got only 10 because the shucker deemed the last two substandard and swapped them for a couple of creamy Namibian oysters, which was appreciated. Special dishes not on the menu may be available, so ask if you want anything in particular. Our waiter suggested a scrumptious crab-meat tartar with sea urchin and caviar, which we devoured in a flash.