Cuisine: Modern robatayaki.

Price: About HK$300 per person without drinks and before adding the service charge.

Ambience: The third floor is a long, narrow room decorated in black and white. Tables along two walls give a limited view of the glass-enclosed kitchen where the cooks grill the food. There were a couple of large groups on the night we dined so it was quite noisy.

Pros: Servers were friendly and the food comes in a logical progression of cold to hot. The menu lists some less standard robata (grill) dishes which are served with five sauces, including barbecue sauce (for red meats), chilli tomato salsa (for seafood and vegetables) and plum sauce (for white meats).

Cons: Some of the food lack finesse - they use good ingredients but the preparation should be more refined. Several of the robata dishes were disappointing. The Wagyu sausage (HK$35) was unpleasant, with the mealy texture of overcooked liver. It looked as if it had been steamed or boiled, rather than grilled. The Wagyu ox tongue (HK$30) was bland; it needed the seasoned salt that traditional robata cooks sprinkle over meats. We wondered how the delicacy of silken tofu (HK$20) would fare on the grill and the answer was not very well. It was leathery and hard, and the curry-tasting paste smeared on the outside was grainy.

Recommended dishes: Beef yukke (HK$70) featured strips of raw tender beef with finely julienned vegetables and a light mirin shoyu dressing. We enjoyed the Alaskan king crab roll (HK$70). The ingredients were of good quality: plentiful crab and buttery-ripe avocado wrapped in nicely seasoned rice, the whole roll coated in tobiko (flying fish roe) and - surprisingly, at this price point - served with fresh wasabi, rather than the sinus-clearing powder or paste. But it needed a more delicate hand: it was too large and thick to eat easily and fell apart after we took a bite. From the list of 'signature robatayaki' we had the wild sea bass (HK$170), which was a beautiful, thick piece of moist fish. Chashu ramen (HK$60) - fatty pork with noodles in Japanese pork broth - was a nice finish to our savoury dishes; the bowl contained a good amount of pork, fish cake, vegetables and noodles in a cloudy, well-flavoured broth. For dessert, we enjoyed the banana tempura with honeycomb ice cream (HK$45), which had four pieces of lightly battered fruit and soft, not-too-rich ice cream.

What else? The fourth floor of the restaurant has a sushi bar and alfresco area.