PUBLISHED : Thursday, 15 October, 2009, 12:00am
UPDATED : Thursday, 15 October, 2009, 12:00am

Fare Fine French.

Ambience Hushed and refined, with lavish classical European furnishings and a pianist playing romantic favourites.

Cost HK$1,200 and up, without drinks.

Turn-ons The lobster and black truffle ravioli with herb pur?e was exquisite, the soft plump pieces of lobster in a delicate shell topped with a few curls of black truffle. The marinated goose liver confit with candied rhubarb and hazelnut dressing oozed juice at the slightest touch of the fork and was sweet and rich without being overpowering. But it was the Challon duck breast with a wine-cherry sauce, maxim potatoes with caramelised onions and goose liver that stole the show. The meat was juicy and tender, and the sauce sublimely fruity and indulgent. The Boston lobster in its own jus with semi-dried tomatoes, artichokes and buttered linguine was expertly cooked. The apple parfait with Granny Smith sherbet, calvados coulis and cider sabayon cleared the palate and ended the meal perfectly after the rich dishes before it.

Turn-offs This standard of dining and service comes at a price, and the formal atmosphere may make some diners feel uncomfortable. The waiter was a little overenthusiastic with his offer of an extra course showcasing the black truffle shipped in from Australia, although it is an unusual and prized delicacy.

Drinks A wine menu as thick as a book, with bottles as low as HK$350 and going up to almost HK$50,000, and a range of choices by the glass.

The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Kowloon, 29202888