Go with the flow
The mainly Vietnamese inhabitants of Chong Khneas, a floating village in Cambodia's Lake Tonle Sap, have to struggle each day to survive. The traditions of their country - the industriousness and determination that enabled Vietnam to defeat the United States - are what has given them an edge and enabled them to ride with the vagaries of nature.
And the people of Chong Khneas have plenty to contend with. The area of Lake Tonle Sap, a Unesco biosphere project, increases at least fourfold in the wet season, spreading from about 2,700 square kilometres in the dry season to more than 16,000 square kilometres during the monsoon, its depth rising by more than eight metres. The stilt-house dwellers near the shoreline have it bad enough but when the water recedes, the 1,100 families of the floating village have to move several kilometres towards the centre of the lake, taking everything with them - including floating schools, fish-processing factories, churches, mosques and even an ingenious pontoon basketball court.
Chong Khneas is just one of about 170 floating villages on Tonle Sap. It's also the easiest to get to, which accounts for its popularity as a day trip from Siem Reap, traditionally visited for its proximity to the ancient Angkor Wat temples. In the wet season, Chong Khneas is about 11 kilometres from Siem Reap; the distance increases to anything from 12 kilometres to 15 kilometres in the dry season. The lake villages make a great day trip once you're templed out and many visitors stop first at Phumi Chhma, with its waterside restaurants on long wooden stilts.
For nearly 30 years from 1970, Tonle Sap was a battle zone. The Khmer Rouge, who had made camps in the forests around the lake, were bombed by the United States Army. Due to the conflict, thousands of residents of the float- ing villages were moved away from their tradi- tional fishing areas to higher ground. Skirmishes between the Khmer Rouge and liberating Vietnamese forces continued and it was only after 1998 that the former inhabitants were able to return to their lake houseboats. Now, despite their difficulties and presence on the lake spanning generations, many are still technically illegal immigrants - even the Khmer residents are regarded as illegal settlers by the land-based locals - cut off from government services and facing one of the highest poverty rates in the country.
We set out on a early morning boat cruise of the Chong Khneas village aboard a modest-looking local long boat. A trip of about 60 to 90 minutes costs US$11 for a small boat (holding up to 10 people) or US$22 for a larger vessel. In truth, this price is only because our guide knows the rates; others may be charged up to US$10 a head but, given the dire financial circumstances of many villagers, this fee is certainly not to be begrudged. So the message is: bargain - but leave a good tip.
Fishing is the main livelihood of most of the floating villages and it's common to see a full-scale fish processing production line in the middle of the lake. Some of the fish caught are tiny riel, used to make the Vietnamese fish sauce nuoc nam. Leftovers are put back into the water or go to fatten the inhabitants of the village's crocodile farm. The crocodiles' skins are destined for the export market, while their meat is a popular replacement for chicken in local restaurants.
We stop for drinks at a two-storey bobbing eatery, one of several in the village. Another restaurant is on the former ferry Tara, a substantial vessel which once plied the Mekong River route between Cambodia and Vietnam. Passengers can enjoy a meal while surveying the village from the top deck.
A few tour operators are offering trips to other floating villages. Kampong Chhnang province has a couple of examples, including Phoum Kandal and Chong Kos, while Pursat province boasts the biggest ethnic Vietnamese village of all, Kampong Luong, complete with cafes, shops and an ice- making plant. Nearer Siem Reap, Kampong Phluk and the larger Kampong Khleang are easily acces- sible by public transport.
The cruise was fascinating but, sadly, a little rushed. Fortunately, it should only be a matter of time before someone floats the idea of a hotel there.
Getting There: take Vietnamese Airlines (www. vietnameseairlines.com) from Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City, in Vietnam, and then on to Siem Reap. Taxis can take you to the various lakeside villages.
