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Jacqueline Tsang

Relatively new to the watch scene, 15-year-old Roger Dubuis is determined to be taken seriously. In addition to relaunching its successful Excalibur line, the brand is also taking the first important step towards ensuring that its movements reach Swiss-made chronometer standards.
From this year onwards, new movements produced by Roger Dubuis Manufacture will be COSC-certified, meaning that each movement will be tested by the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) in order to be granted chronometer status. 
The brand also plans to submit existing movements to COSC for certification over the next two years. 
'We are heading forward with confidence,' says Roger Dubuis chief operating officer Claude Vuillemez.  
'Armed with the in-depth knowledge of watch movements and of the market, we have reassessed and recreated one of our most popular collections.'
Vuillemez was referring to the Excalibur collection  that was  launched in 2005, noted for its modern, aesthetically dynamic designs that soon came to define  the brand.
'It is like a teenager,' Vuillemez  says. 'Noisy, dramatic, but with a lot of potential.'
The new models in the collection include the Tourbillon Minute Repeater, Double Tourbillon, Self-Winding Tourbillon  and Bi-Retrograde Jumping Date, all fitted with the collection's signature fluted bezel and triple lugs. 
The Tourbillon Minute Repeater features an open-worked dial that showcases the Poin?on de Gen?ve finishing of the RD08 platinum double micro-rotor self-winding mechanical movement. 
The finishing follows specific criteria set by Geneva and guarantees fine aesthetic workmanship. 
A rose gold ring encircles the flying tourbillon between five o'clock and six o'clock, matching the  hour and minute hands and the watch case. 
Other decorative details include a double flange in black and grey, and a small quaver on the bezel at 10 o'clock as a subtle indication of the minute repeater function. The second generation Double Tourbillon model comes in a platinum case that houses a hand-wound mechanical movement, also stamped with the Poin?on de Geneve quality hallmark. The movement has been completely re-engineered from the original, with more than 30 components redesigned and manufactured. 
The two tourbillons on the lower half of the dial move in unison, completing one revolution per minute as shown by the small seconds hand on each. Functions include a jumping-hour hand that makes a full sweep around the dial, and a retrograde minutes display featured on the top half of the  dial between nine o'clock and  three o'clock. 
The Self-Winding Tourbillon in rose gold is equipped with the new RD520 tourbillon movement with a micro-rotor self-winding system. Launched this year, the new movement will be submitted to COSC for chronometer certification. 
The micro-rotor is visible at 10 o'clock, above the flying tourbillon with small seconds hand at seven o'clock, encircled by a mother-of-pearl and rose gold small seconds dial. 
The final Excalibur novelty, the Bi-Retrograde Jumping Date, houses another new movement from Roger Dubuis Manufacture. 
The RD14B self-winding mechanical movement features a central bi-retrograde jumping date hand that counts the first 15 days of the month on the left date zone (from 11 o'clock to eight o'clock), followed by days 16 to 31 on the right date zone (one o'clock to four o'clock). 
For months with less than 31 days, the date can be adjusted with the date corrector.  
The model is cased in white  gold, paired with a hand-sewn alligator strap. 
The Minute Repeater and Double Tourbillon models are limited to 28 pieces each, while the Self-Winding Tourbillon and Bi-Retrograde Jumping Date are limited to 88 pieces each.



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