The original administrative capital for what became Hong Kong was at Nam Tau ('south head') now usually rendered in pinyin as Nantou. Today part of the sprawling Shenzhen conurbation, Nam Tau is located on the shores of Tai Shan Wan, the next bay north from shallow, muddy Deep Bay, which separates Hong Kong from Shenzhen.
Nam Tau's strategic position, close to the sea, made it the first line of maritime defence for the Pearl River estuary and the approaches to Guangzhou, and the earliest recorded military installations here date back to AD331. More extensive fortifications were built in 1394, at what became known as Nam Tau Shing ('Nam Tau walled city'), and reinforced in later centuries. Japanese sea brigands, known as wako, were a persistent scourge all along the China coast during this time and devastating raids from these East Asian equivalent of the Vikings were commonplace. Substantial maritime defences were vital and sensitively restored gates and other original features from this period - including a former brothel building - can be visited in Nam Tau Shing.
Nam Tau functioned as the civilian district headquarters for Po On county (the regional military headquarters was located at Dapeng, some distance to the east, on the shores of Mirs Bay), and the name was widely used to refer to the surrounding countryside.
Sixteenth-century Portuguese mariners were told the mountainous island at the Pearl River entrance was named Nam Tau, because it was within its jurisdiction, which was rendered Lantau or Lantao - the correct Chinese name for the island is Tai Yue Shan. Lantau has often been considered to be a corrupted pronunciation of 'broken head' - the jagged edges of Lantau Peak, when seen from the sea, would give that impression. However, the former orthographical explanation makes more sense.
By the 1920s, Nam Tau had declined in local importance, the Kowloon-Canton Railway having linked Hong Kong and Guangzhou. As the railway line passed through the then-small border village of Shum Chun (modern Shenzhen) on the way north, this steadily developed as a commercial and transportation hub for the county. Finally, in 1953, the Po On district headquarters was moved to Shum Chun, which completed Nam Tau's eclipse.
The easiest access is through the Shenzhen Bay Control Point, which crosses the little-used bridge across Deep Bay from Hong Kong. Nam Tau's main sights can be easily visited in a day. Alternatively, regular buses depart from Lo Wu and taxis are inexpensive.