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'Land of smiles' must deal with its dark side

After two months of conflict that left more than 80 dead and 1,400 injured, Thailand has never had a greater need for change. Thais are ashamed that their violent side, hidden from tourists by a 'Land of Smiles' public relations campaign, has been revealed to the world.

Many Thais are appalled at both the government's overwrought crackdown on a relatively small group of mostly middle-aged peasants and migrant workers, and the burning of more than 30 major buildings by incensed protesters and thugs allied with the 'red shirts'. Yet as train lines reopen and volunteers mop up streets, Thai politicians and media are failing to come clean about the taboo subjects of inequality, injustice and the dominance of wealthy Chinese-Thai business oligarchs allied with military generals.

The Thai media has been careful not to say that arsonists mainly targeted Chinese-Thai businesses such as the Central World shopping centre, several Bangkok bank branches and 7-Elevens, and Channel 3 TV, which broadcast an actor's speech denouncing 'red shirt' leaders.

Finance Minister Korn Chatikavanij has said that the destruction of the central business and tourism core will shave only 0.5 per cent off the gross domestic product, when 5 per cent is more likely. Foreigners are likely to avoid the country for at least a year after seeing Bangkok looking like Beirut.

While many pundits focused on the dispute between the yellows and reds - represented by Prime Minister Abhisit Vejjajiva and former leader and fugitive billionaire Thaksin Shinawatra - the Thai military has upgraded its de facto power by imposing an undeclared martial law over Bangkok and 23 provinces, and detaining 'red shirt' leaders at an army base.

Ahead of a military shuffle later this year, hundreds of generals are competing to manipulate events behind the scenes in order to serve their business interests - involving golf courses, beach resorts, Channel 5 TV, the Thai Military Bank, logging and gem concessions in neighbouring countries, and lucrative arms deals with China and Russia. Few in Thailand dare to join the European Union and Human Rights Watch in accusing the generals of rights violations and the sin of shooting at people near a Buddhist temple.

If Abhisit, the military, and the Chinese-Thai oligarchs are sincere about seeking national reconciliation, they could defuse tensions by accepting partial responsibility for the mayhem of the past two months.

The government could pacify vengeful 'red shirts' by reducing charges against their more moderate leaders, who proved unable to control more radical followers. Abhisit should return to his original offer of an election on November 14.

Even though the 'red shirts' have alienated many Thais by backing out of a peace deal and destroying much of central Bangkok, their original calls for 'truth today' were warranted. Instead of propagating more tourism hype, Thailand can regain tourists and investors by dealing honestly with its dark side.

Christopher Johnson, author of Siamese Dreams, has been covering Thailand since 1987

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