Cuisine: Tonkatsu and other fried foods.

Price: about HK$200 without drinks and before adding the service charge.

Ambience: the split-level space is decorated in pale wood, and has a sushi bar and a great view of the harbour.

Pros: the food is reasonably priced for being in the IFC Mall. Servers are efficient and come around frequently to offer extra helpings of the cabbage that comes with the tonkatsu sets.

Cons: either the chairs are too low or the tables are too high - we (slightly) vertically challenged diners felt like kids eating at the grown-ups' table and had to perch on the edge of the seats to reach our food. My guest ordered one of the restaurant's featured dishes: the rosu katsu set (HK$158), which was made with pork loin, rather than the less fatty fillet. I tasted two slices - one at the beginning, while the meat was hot, and the second at the end, after it had cooled down. The first piece had a thin, delicately crunchy crust and moist meat. The second slice looked and tasted as if it had come from another piece of pork loin entirely - the meat was very dry.

Recommended dishes: the Japanese tomato salad (HK$48) - thick wedges of skinned tomato in a light sauce - was refreshing and appetising. The miso soup and pickles served with the set meals were enjoyable. My main course of hire katsu don (HK$148, above) - deep fried pork fillet with sauteed onions, fried egg and 'secret sauce' - was delicious. The coating was thin, and the leanness of the pork loin was balanced by the runny egg, moist rice and sweet-savoury sauce.

What else? there's a branch of Ginza Bairin in the K11 mall in Tsim Sha Tsui.