Angkor's away
Through my mask, I survey the scene in the clear, shallow waters - shoals of striped butterfly fish darting in and out among the coral and sea urchins that make spiky shadows on the seabed. Coming up to the surface, the only vessel on the horizon is a solitary speedboat idly floating by the jetty, the beach set against a backdrop of lush vegetation and endless blue sky. All is quiet save for the lazy lap of the waves onto the powdery sand.
This is Song Saa on Cambodia's Koh Rong archipelago, where clear blue waters and tranquil beaches that rival the Maldives lie in abundance. Situated 32 kilometres south of Sihanoukville, the adjacent islands of Koh Ouen and Koh Bong is the site of Song Saa Island Resort, Cambodia's first eco-luxe development. Owned by Australian entrepreneurs Rory and Mel Hunter, it comprises six bungalows and 14 villas, which are available for holiday rental. All are due to open next year.
Three million tourists are expected to visit Cambodia this year, with most heading from Siem Reap directly to the ruins of Angkor Wat. But as extraordinary as the Angkor complex is there is more to this country than its ancient temples - the swathes of golden sand beaches line the coast around Sihanoukville and Ream, which styles itself as the Cambodian Riviera. The opening of Sihanoukville airport next year will make coastal attractions more accessible and hoteliers are gearing up to meet the needs of more affluent travellers.
The Song Saa resort, for example, will feature a spa built in the rainforest canopy, three bars and two restaurants, one of which is built over the water 100 metres out from the island, with charges set at between US$400 and US$500 per night.
But the Hunters have established a fully policed, privately funded, protected marine area at the resort. Covering one million square metres, it is monitored by marine biologist Bart Kluskens, a full-time staff member.
'We're taking a triple bottom line approach, where social and environmental factors line up alongside the financial,' says Rory Hunter. 'We've been inspired by the Maldives and looked at places like Six Senses and want to keep Song Saa similarly small and exclusive.'
This slice of untouched paradise is admittedly difficult to reach at present: Sihanoukville is a three-hour car journey from Phnom Penh, then it's 30 minutes by boat to the island. But that will change with the opening of Sihanoukville airport.
Sensing the potential of Cambodia's unspoiled coast, local conglomerate Royal Group is developing the country's first environmentally planned resort on nearby Koh Rong, home to 28 white sand beaches. It has attracted the interest of several top resort groups, which see it as the next big opportunity in a world where quality tourism development options are shrinking.
Sihanoukville, which has been popular with backpackers since the 60s, also has boutique accommodation - the Independence Hotel, a chic property that opened in 1963. A sundowner on the terrace is a delicious way to end the day, especially if you wander over to the rocks and watch the sun sink into the sea. For those seeking more privacy, the hotel has recently opened adjacent pool bungalows.
Independence general manager Philip Toh says the hotel is popular with British and American tourists and has hosted the US and German ambassadors. He hopes Sihanoukville's new airport will bring more visitors from Malaysia and South Korea.
Just 10 minutes' drive from Independence is another irresistible beach: Sokha, the site of Cambodia's first five-star beach resort. Opened in 2004, Sokha Beach Resort occupies a prime location just steps away from the beach, a 1.5 kilometre sandy expanse framed by shady trees with an uninterrupted horizon.
To attract a more modern customer, earlier this year the resort opened a series of luxury lagoon chalets, Moha Mohori, aimed at honeymooners or couples looking for a quiet break
In 2012, the hotel group will also open Ochheuteal Beach Resort & Casino just south of Sokha, which features a three kilometre casuarina-lined coast where holiday makers can tear up the surf on a jet ski.
Ream, 18 kilometres from Sihanoukville and reachable by boat, is home to one of Cambodia's seven national parks. Ream National Park features picturesque beaches as well as jungle and mangrove forests - the area encompasses 150 sq km of forest and 60 sq km of marine habitat - and it's common to see monkeys scrambling in the mangrove trees.
'Ream National Park is unique for its estuarine and coastal bird populations such as sea eagles, kites, osprey, painted and milky storks, lesser adjutant as well as dolphins and otters,' says Matthew Maltby, a projects officer with Flora and Fauna International's Cambodia programme.
While accommodation in the area is now limited to some basic seaside guesthouses, several high-end hotels are in the pipeline. The Sofitel and Orient Express groups are both slated to open hotels and the Archetype Group is developing the Ream Resort.
For now, the bright lights and cheap beer signs in downtown Sihanoukville reflect the larger backpacker reality. Western-style restaurants and cheery bars abound, and Monkey Republic on Ochheuteal Beach and Nap House on Serendipity Beach are two of the best places to hang out. But the new wave of luxury resorts at Sokha, Ream, Koh Rong and Song Saa look set to usher in a new phase for tourism in Cambodia.
