Liberty Exchange Kitchen & Bar

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 14 October, 2010, 12:00am
UPDATED : Thursday, 14 October, 2010, 12:00am

Fare Refined comfort food with top-class ingredients.

Ambience The bar downstairs is popular with bankers enjoying after-work drinks, but the dining room upstairs is quiet. The interior is minimal, in a palette of black and white, with bulbous silver hanging lamps, and framed black and white photos providing the only decoration. Diners can watch the chefs at work in the kitchen at one end of the dining room.

Cost About HK$400 for three courses without drinks.

Who to bring It's cosy, so better for couples or smaller groups; the booth seats offer some privacy for a blossoming romance.

Turn-ons The eight-hour French onion soup was magnificent, sumptuously thick and topped with a dense layer of sweet onion and a deliciously soggy slice of bread covered in melted cheese. The duck duck goose (below), slices of pan-roasted duck breast served with a duck confit, foie gras risotto cake and chilli caramel, was interesting and well executed. We appreciated that with the risotto cake, instead of going for the easy option of a crowd-pleasing foie gras fest the chef went light on the goose liver, but the cake was a little dry. The duck breast however was perfectly cooked, succulent and full of rich, smoky flavour.

Turn-offs We were thrilled to see house-made sausages (preferring homemade to the mass-produced varieties that often contain parts of animals we would rather not eat) on the menu, but our high expectations were disappointed. All three varieties - hot Italian, herb and sweet andouille - were tasty, especially the very spicy Italian, but they were too dry. The tangy coleslaw served on the side provided some juiciness, but could not save the day.

Drinks A fairly short wine list, but plenty of cocktails, beers and spirits, especially whiskies.

G/F, Exchange Square, 8 Connaught Place, Central, 2810 8400