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The Great Indian Kebab Factory

Fare Indian, with an emphasis on grilled meats (hence the name), although curries and vegetarian food are also well represented.

Ambience It's in a shopping mall, so don't expect to be blown away by the atmosphere. That said, an effort has been made to lull diners into believing they're in a comfortable home, with banquettes, silk cushions and graceful chandeliers somewhat dulling the mall lighting from outside.

Cost About HK$250 per head for dinner with a glass of wine. The special menu, an 11-course extravaganza available in omnivorous or herbivorous combinations, is HK$218.

Who to bring A group of friends in need of a catch-up, especially if they think they don't like Indian food.

Turn-ons The food. While the menu is not particularly extensive, what is offered is done well. The butter pepper garlic jheenga (prawns tossed with butter and spices) was fresh-tasting with a fiery kick, while the old Delhi chat, a mixture of lentils, crisp pastry and cooling yogurt, was refreshingly zingy. The mutton sheekh kebab (below) comes as four generous skewers of succulent mince with a kick. But the revelation, especially for a non-curry-lover, was the meat beli ram (left), an almost unbelievably aromatic combination of meltingly tender lamb and a heartily spiced, but not overly spicy, curry.

Turn-offs The service ranged from the pushy (our decision not to go for the set menu was challenged three times) to the clumsy - dishes were placed on the table with little regard for a lack of customer dexterity.

Drinks A decent variety of wines, mostly from the New World.

Shop 8, Level 2, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, 2317 7008

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