Move over umami, there's a new word on the block for foodies. Just as umami had gained widespread acceptance in the West as the 'fifth taste', there's another word to learn - kokumi.
It was 'discovered' only six or seven years ago, says Michael Peters, director of global flavour creation technology at Givaudan, the largest 'flavourists' in the world with almost a quarter of the market. The company creates flavours for fast-food companies and producers of packaged foods such as snacks, beverages and frozen products. Its food flavourists and chefs seek new ways to mimic and improve flavours, without necessarily adding ingredients such as monosodium glutamate (MSG) or more salt.
'Koku means rich, and mi means taste,' Peters says. 'Kokumi is an artificial word. It was coined by Ajinomoto.'
Ajinomoto is a company whose name is almost synonymous with MSG, the controversial food additive and crystal form of umami - a taste that occurs naturally in a wide range of ingredients such as milk, cheese, meats, seafood, mushrooms, tomatoes, peas and other vegetables. Umami, which combines uma (delicious) with mi, was the name given by Japanese chemistry professor Kikunae Ikeda in 1907 to the flavour-enhancing qualities of kombu - giant sea kelp.
Givaudan flavourists, food flavour scientists and in-house chefs were in Hong Kong this month for the company's biennial Chefs' Council, held at the Hospitality Industry Training and Development Centre in Pok Fu Lam.
Joining them were top chefs representing the four Givaudan-designated regions. Jordi Roca - from the Europe, Africa and Middle East region - is the pastry chef in the trio of brothers who make up the Michelin three-star El Celler de Can Roca in Girona, Spain, which is No 4 on the 2010 list of the World's 50 Best restaurants by Restaurant Magazine. Alex Atala of D.O.M. in Sao Paulo, Brazil, at No 18 on the list, represented the Latin American region; while Paul Virant of Vie in Chicago, represented North America. From the Asia-Pacific region was Hong Kong's Alvin Leung, of the Michelin one-star Bo Innovation in Wan Chai and No19 in the Miele Guide's list of 20 top restaurants in Asia, in results announced last night.