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Uncorked

Sauvignon blanc and semillon make for a fascinating mix. The blend of these two grapes works well, in part, because, like the characters Brad Pitt and Cate Blanchett play in the film The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, they age in opposite directions. Sauvignon blanc begins life fully mature with exhilarating vigour, acidic verve and flagrant aromatics. But these lose their power and maturity with time and it typically devolves into a simple, one-dimensional tart wine incapable of speaking. Semillon, on the other hand, begins life with a scrunched-up face. It's a tart, tight little wine but its beauty, scope and complexity emerge with the passage of time - just as sauvignon blanc begins to fade. Australia's Margaret River and Bordeaux in France are the only wine regions to have made this Benjamin Button combo their signature blend. Below is a selection from Margaret River to give you a view of Benjamin and Daisy at their various stages of evolution.

Cullen Wines sauvignon blanc/semillon 2008

Pale gold colour with complex and delicate pear, and citrus fruit, with toasty nuances that build in power on the palate. Weighty body balanced by snappy acidity and a honeyed wink at the finish. Subtle, elegant and classy - exactly what one would expect from one of the region's finest winemakers Vanya Cullen.

Available for HK$188 at Watson's Wine Cellar (tel: 2606 8828)

Suckfizzle sauvignon blanc/semillon 2008

Pale, lemon-gold colour. Relatively quiet nose but this wine shows its pedigree on the palate with toasty lemon-biscuit and beeswax flavours followed by a thyme and sage herbal flourish. Layered and multidimensional with excellent flavour persistence.

Available for HK$279 at Oliver's (tel: 2810 7710)

Cape Mentelle sauvignon blanc/semillon 2008

Pale lemon colour; brisk cut-grass herbiness allied with plush citrus, gooseberry and passion fruit. Rounded, with excellent length. Finishes with a tangy rind and herbal salute.

Available for HK$150 at Moet Hennessy Diageo (tel: 2976 1111)

Castle Lion Vineyards sauvignon blanc/semillon 2008

Pale, watery gold colour, gentle nose backed-up with a full-flavoured palate. Savoury, fruity and complex with passion fruit, kiwi and intriguing gunflint emerging on the back palate. Harmonious, balanced, fresh acidity - serve with pride. Excellent match with Chinese roast chicken.

Available for HK$173 at AuSpirit (tel: 2790 1686)

Voyager Estate sauvignon blanc/semillon 2008

Pale lemony colour. Intense aromas of citrus and stone fruits. Elevated grassy herbal notes coupled with ripe tangy tropical fruit nuances. Classic passion fruit with tart lemon-rind accents. Medium-high acidity, medium body, a hint of warmth on the finish. Moderate length, so keep sipping to maximise the experience.

Available for HK$148 at Watson's Wine Cellar

Debra Meiburg is a master of wine

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