If ever a variety of cabbage could be called luxurious, it would be the savoy. The vegetable, with its large exterior leaves in varying shades of jade green that become pale yellow towards the centre, looks as if it's been created out of crinkled fabric shot through with jagged veins.

While other cabbages are strong and hearty - and made into humble (but delicious) dishes such as sauerkraut and kimchi - the savoy is often paired with expensive ingredients. One of the most extravagant dishes I've eaten was served by chef Joel Robuchon at one of the opening dinners of Robuchon a Galera at Hotel Lisboa, in Macau. Thin slices of black truffle and foie gras were layered into a large mound about 5cm thick, wrapped in savoy cabbage, then steamed. It was my first experience of being sated by eating black truffle.

For something that's almost as luxurious - but won't break the bank - start by preparing veal sweetbreads: soak them in cold acidulated water for several hours, then drain and blanch them in salted water. Peel off the membranes and veins and cut the sweetbreads into bite-sized pieces. Season the sweetbreads with salt and pepper, dip them in flour and shake off the excess, then saut? in melted butter. Cut some boneless chicken into bite-sized pieces, season with salt and pepper, dip in flour and saut? as you did the sweetbreads. Make a roux by cooking equal weights of butter and flour until pale golden (stirring constantly), then whisk in enough milk or cream to make a thin sauce that coats a wooden spoon. Simmer for several minutes. Mix some of the sauce into the sweetbread and chicken and adjust the seasonings; if you like, also fold in some finely chopped black truffle. Blanch savoy cabbage leaves until wilted then drain and squeeze dry. Pat off the moisture with paper towels, then wrap the leaves around the sweetbread and chicken mixture. Place the cabbage rolls in a baking dish and spoon some of the extra sauce over the top. Cover the pan lightly with aluminium foil and bake until the cabbage leaves are tender and the filling is hot. Serve immediately.