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Luxury Watches

Hip to be square

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Why you can trust SCMP
Abid Rahman

I've always had trouble with the phrase 'square peg in a round hole'. It's an idiomatic expression that in essence means that being exceptional, out of the ordinary, a little bit different, is not necessarily a good thing if you want to get along with everyone else. If Radiohead smoothed off their edges to fit in, would they have redefined how we experience modern music? If Einstein had tamed his wild mane with a sensible short back and sides, would he have come up with all that relativity stuff? If Tom Cruise had decided to not jump on Oprah Winfrey's sofa, would he have made the cinematic masterpiece that is Knight and Day?

Well, OK, that last one might be a bad example. However, sometimes, being the square peg can make you stand out, and literally so, in the world of watches. Analogue timepieces with square dials are not as common as the round variety but that isn't a reflection of the quality and range of designs available. Chief among the square dials is the venerable Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Since the line was introduced, in 1931, there has rarely been a Reverso that wasn't elegant and superbly made. So it is with the new breed, including the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin (top). This watch is a tribute to the original, which celebrates its 80th birthday this year. The Grande Reverso Ultra Thin is exactly as the name suggests: thin - less than 3mm thick. It looks unobtrusive on the wrist and the restrained styling is a nod to art-deco design principles. The just-released Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin in pink gold is now available in Hong Kong, at a recommended retail price of HK$117,000.

Baume et Mercier's Hampton range may lack the heritage of the Reverso but it is certainly more attainable in terms of price. The HK$21,000 Hampton Classic XL Chronograph 8807 (centre) is an affordable watch that is equal parts classic styling and modern panache. It is a steel and alligator-leather example of juxtaposing echoes of the past and quirky modernity, with oversized five, seven and 12 numerals set off by the simplistic black face. The three-dial chronograph (a stopwatch function) is almost an afterthought. Don't let the relatively low price tag put you off what is a thoroughly well- designed watch.

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If you are the adventurous sort and, more importantly, you have the money, then the Maitres du Temps Chapter One might be the ultimate square-dial timepiece for you. Priced at more than HK$3 million, this special edition Chapter One in white gold with a black dial (below) could be described as an extravagance. It is as feature-packed as luxury watches get, with a chronograph and four correctors - adjusting mechanisms - for the date, Greenwich Mean Time, day of the week and the moon phase. Only 11 pieces of this edition have been made. Despite all its various complexities, the watch is easy to read, so it is a lot more than a mere bauble for your wrist.

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