Mugler launches improved version of 'Active' line
By KAVITA DASWANI
THIERRY Mugler's secondary line, 'Active', has been replaced this season by a new, improved version, simply called 'Mugler'.
Similar to the primary range, 'Mugler' was launched 'in accordance with the company's strategy to expand from within', according to spokesman Isa Peron.
The collection is being manufactured entirely on Mugler's own premises in France. Its predecessor, 'Active', was made by licensees in Italy.
'We were not very satisfied with the previous arrangement and now feel like we have more control,' Ms Peron said.
The collection also rounds off the main Thierry Mugler range by providing weekend and sporty wear.
Ms Peron said some of the designer's ready-to-wear pieces were of 'haute couture' quality - spectacular in workmanship and, of course, with prices to match.
'We do some couture pieces for individual clients, and there are definitely some parts of the main collection that we consider of couture standard,' she said.
'Mugler' is about 30 per cent cheaper than the primary collection, a factor that is certain to expand the designer's client base.
'We will attract a broader clientele by catering to people who cannot afford the main line. But it is also to help people who do buy from the main line and who are looking for more choice in comfortable clothes to wear for the weekend.' In his debut collection, Mugler created a range of what he calls 'Essentials': a beige suit in wool crepe and cotton at almost 5,000 francs (about HK$7,250), a mohair and lambswool three-quarter-length trench coat (5,800 francs), and a black zipper parka jacket, emblazoned with the famous Mugler name, at 1,150 francs.
While prices are lower than his main collection, this is signature Mugler stuff: shapes remain severe and military-inspired - heavily padded shoulders, tiny waists, skinny trousers.
'There are some sophisticated suits, and trademarks like the zippers, and we have kept the Mugler cut,' Ms Peron said.
'But while it is still sophisticated because we emphasise the waist and broaden the shoulders, the new line automatically looks much more casual.
'It can also be more comfortable to wear than the main collection. But it is faithful to Thierry Mugler's style, and is very high-quality looking.' A road show to launch the new Mugler offerings went from Paris to Italy, Germany and New York. Plans to show it officially in Hong Kong, where it is now available at Joyce, may materialise later on.
Thierry Mugler is one of the high fashion world's most avant garde designers.
Fashion critics - not all of whom rave about his sometimes shocking collections - say Mugler would rather pack up and drop out than show anything uniform or remotely ordinary.