Our anchor chain is still rattling through the hawser when we spot him. Round and furry and still clumsy with youth, the bear is taking its time, looking under rocks and logs for an early evening snack as it ambles along the beach, oblivious to our presence.
We are sailing through the heart of the Inside Passage, a narrow, winding route that runs north from Seattle, in the United States, past Canada's British Columbia and along the Alaskan coast, which is, again, US territory. We are in Canadian waters, between Vancouver Island and the mainland coast, and among the quiet Gulf Islands.
The entrance to Beaver Harbour is guarded by an island and a string of rocks, which makes it tricky to enter but ensures it is a safe place to drop anchor for the night, before lighting the barbecue for dinner.
We could be in any number of anchorages nearby; these waters offer a plethora of small coves and inlets, all of which are inviting places in which to settle down for the night. Sit back on deck, drink in hand, and listen to the sounds of the forested shore, safe in the knowledge you'll be afforded a generous dose of privacy.
The chartering of yachts normally conjures up images of tropical beaches or parties in chic Mediterranean ports, but the Pacific Northwest offers a refreshing alternative, particularly if you live in Asia. Easily accessible on regular and affordable flights between Hong Kong and Vancouver, sailing the Gulf Islands is a holiday that can easily be tacked onto other Canadian travel plans and one that is far removed from the clamour of urban life. And you can cast off into these waters from several towns and cities. Seattle and Vancouver Island's Victoria and Nanaimo are popular entry points.
Although the Canadian portion of this route alone stretches for more than 600 nautical miles, the many islands and starting points in the region allow for weekend or even day trips that still take in plenty of rugged scenery.