The Vegetarian Option

PUBLISHED : Sunday, 29 May, 2011, 12:00am
UPDATED : Sunday, 29 May, 2011, 12:00am


The Vegetarian Option
By Simon Hopkinson

It seems strange that one of the first recipes in The Vegetarian Option is for chicken broth. Simon Hopkinson, author of the excellent Roast Chicken and Other Stories, writes that the recipe is for carnivores 'like me' who would want to use the stock in dishes of risotto and soup, but, he says, the vegetable bouillon recipe can be used instead.

I can see why vegetarians would be annoyed by the inclusion of that recipe; meat eaters can use many more cookbooks than can vegetarians, and surely they could consult one of those other books for a method on how to make chicken stock.

However, that a confirmed meat eater was able to write a book on vegetarian dishes that holds the interest of another omnivore (namely me) shows the appeal of his recipes.

Some recipes are obvious and too 'light': caesar salad (without the anchovies) and onion and blood orange salad with olive oil. But others would be hearty enough for any meat eater: potato pie with Beaufort cheese; Oriental spring onion salad with radish, cucumber, cashews and vermicelli; fried aubergine with skordalia; and new season garlic, saffron and tomato quiche.