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The mild frontier

The almond is the plain Jane of the nut world, pushed aside in favour of more exotic (and more expensive) varieties such as the cashew, hazelnut, pecan and Brazil nut. Nevertheless, it's the nut I depend on most in the kitchen, because its relatively mild, slightly sweet flavour makes it perfect for sweet and savoury dishes alike.

Almond tartlets (pictured)

I usually use metric weights, but this filling is easiest to memorise in volume measurements: it has equal amounts of sliced almond, ground almond, sugar and cream. The p?te sucr?e recipe came from The Pie and Pastry Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum.

For the p?te sucr?e:

400 grams plain (all-purpose) flour

100 grams granulated sugar

1/2 tsp fine sea salt

250 grams unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1cm chunks

2 large egg yolks, chilled

About 80ml cream, chilled

1 tsp vanilla extract

For the filling:

1 cup (95 grams) sliced almonds (preferably with skin on)

1 cup (95 grams) ground almonds

1 cup (200 grams) sugar

1 cup (240 grams) cream

30ml Grand Marnier

1/4 tsp almond extract

Make the pate sucree at least two hours in advance. Put the flour, sugar and salt in a food processor and pulse. Add the chunks of cold butter and pulse until roughly chopped into 3mm pieces, then transfer to a large bowl. In another bowl, thoroughly combine the yolks, cream and vanilla extract. Pour the liquid ingredients over the dry ingredients and quickly and gently mix into a cohesive mass that's neither sticky nor dry. If it's dry, add a little chilled cream. Knead the dough lightly then divide into two pieces, shape into discs, wrap in cling-film and chill for at least an hour. On a floured surface, roll one piece of dough at a time into a thickness of about 3mm and use it to line 12 to 15 tart rings about 6cm in diameter and about 1cm deep. Trim the dough overhang so it's flush with the top of the ring. Put the rings on a parchment-paper-lined baking sheet and chill for at least 30 minutes. (Gather the scraps of dough, press gently into a disc, wrap in cling-film and refrigerate or freeze; the dough can be used to make a tart shell.)

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius. Press a piece of aluminium foil into each dough-lined tart ring, leaving an overhang at the edges. Pour uncooked rice into the foil lining (to hold the dough down so it doesn't bubble up). Place the rings (on the baking sheet) into the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Turn the heat to 180 degrees and bake for about five minutes. Carefully remove the foil and rice from each tart ring (the rice can be saved for the next time you bake tarts). Bake the shells for about five more minutes, or until they're fragrant and start to take on a light golden colour. Remove from the oven but leave the heat on.

For the filling, put the ground and sliced almonds, sugar and cream in a saucepan and place over a medium-low flame. Stir constantly until bubbling then continue to stir until the mixture has thickened enough to be spoonable. Fill the tart shells almost to the brim. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the mixture bubbles thickly and is lightly browned on top. Cool to lukewarm before removing the metal rings and serving.

Almond, lemon and rosemary aioli

I found this recipe in Skye Gyngell's book A Year in My Kitchen. She serves it with veal chops but it's also delicious with seared pork chops, roast chicken and other types of mild meat, as well as a dipping sauce for crudit?s.

120 grams whole blanched almonds

2 tbsp finely chopped rosemary leaves

2 large garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

3 large egg yolks, at room temperature

2 tsp Dijon mustard

About 45ml fresh lemon juice, or to taste

Finely grated zest of half a lemon

200ml extra-virgin olive oil (or use 100ml extra-virgin olive oil and 100ml neutral-tasting cooking oil, such as grapeseed)

Fine sea salt

Preheat the oven to 180 degrees. Spread the almonds in one layer on a baking sheet and bake for five minutes, or until they're light golden. Let them cool for a few minutes, or until they're just warm to the touch. Put the almonds, rosemary and garlic in a food processor and grind until the ingredients form a coarse paste. Scrape the mixture into a bowl and place on a 'nest' made from a slightly damp kitchen cloth - this will hold the bowl steady while you're whisking in the ingredients. Whisk the egg yolks, mustard, a sprinkling of salt and half the lemon juice into the almond/garlic mixture. Whisking constantly, start adding the oil a few drops at a time, letting it incorporate fully before whisking in more. When the emulsion is stable, whisk in the oil in a slow, steady stream - not too quickly or the mixture will curdle. If it becomes too thick, add a little lemon juice, and, when all the lemon juice has been whisked in, add a few drops of warm water. After whisking in all of the oil, stir in the lemon zest and adjust the seasonings.

Styling Nellie Ming Lee

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