Cover me beautiful
Fashion has started to embrace a more modest look in recent years, with designers adopting minimalist styles. The trend has made its way into swimwear this summer. The more conservative one-piece has experienced a revival on the catwalks, with designs by brands such as Michael Kors, Pucci and BCBG Max Azria.
'I think the bikini silhouette has been evolving slowly over the past three or four years,' says Sabina Wong Sutch, founder and designer of Hong Kong swimwear brand Sabina Swims. 'It's gone from skimpy two-pieces, like Burberry's classic string bikini, to increasingly conservative two-pieces with higher waistlines and more coverage at the bust. So it's been a natural progression toward the one-piece.'
The one-piece styles that appeared on the spring-summer catwalks ranged from ultra-conservative to downright sexy. There were plenty of modern cuts, including Lanvin's pleated one-shoulder styles and Pucci's sexy printed cutout suits. At the other end of the spectrum, there was a strong retro influence as designers recalled classic stars such as Brigitte Bardot and Marilyn Monroe. This look was more glamorous. It was seen in the low-cut belted floral costumes at Marc by Marc Jacobs, in the ruffled blue styles at DKNY, and in the embroidered suits with sweetheart necklines at Elie Tahari.
'It's definitely more retro than modern, as we take cues from women like Grace Kelly. The silhouettes have lower leg lines. That really is the key to the retro trend,' says Wong Sutch.
Women are embracing the one-piece's comeback for obvious reasons. The bikini exposes unflattering areas such as the tummy, while the one piece keeps them covered. It can hide a multitude of sins. It's also extremely versatile, as demonstrated on the catwalks this year. Designers paired their suits with outerwear and other regular clothing, elevating it to a year-round wardrobe staple that could be worn both on and off the beach.
'Try pairing your suit with nice shorts or a skirt,' suggests Wendy Puyat, Filipino designer of swimwear label Por do Sol. 'It can even double as an elegant top if the appropriate style is chosen. It can give a dressy and elegant look or project a daring and modern allure. It depends on the style.'