Who started it? Japanese designer Yoshiaki Fujiwara launched Giuliano Fujiwara in Milan in 1986. The label is known for combining minimalism and traditional Japanese aesthetics, which hinted at a nostalgia for old Japan. Fujiwara's definition of masculinity ushered in a new view of menswear in the mid-1980s. Since his death, in 2005, the label has been headed by Masataka Matsumura, a Japanese designer who studied fashion in London. Matsumura continued where Fujiwara left off, combining Japanese design sensibilities with Italian technology and high-quality manufacturing traditions.

Why we love it: Matsumura is good at striking a balance. His designs often fuse contrasting features such as colours and materials. These contrasts successfully translate into highly wearable and chic pieces. The current spring-summer collection mixes cotton and leather with synthetic materials such as nylon, and combines dusty shades such as burnt orange, beige and powder blue with black, white and grey. Coats are practical but pack a visual punch. The collection features sharp cuts and silhouettes inspired by traditional Italian suits.

What we'd pick: the grey shorts with black leather patches (below right; HK$3,790) and black micro leather jacket (below left; HK$17,500).