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Asian grapevine

I have been based out of Paris for three weeks now and have consumed more cheese, butter and bread in these past several weeks than over the past six months. Dr Atkins would certainly not approve of the French diet, which is heavy on breads, cream and fat.

Despite the high fat content in their diet, very few people in France are as obese as their American counterparts and suffer fewer coronary diseases. Part of Asia's sudden interest in wine in the early 1990s was due to The French Paradox, a program that aired on CBS in the United States in November 1991. The premise of this 60-minute documentary was that wine was a major factor in the French having lower risk of cardiovascular disease despite the high fat content in their meals.

The documentary spawned a flood of research that tried to either dispel or support the thesis. Twenty years later, abundant research has surfaced countering this theory to claim that it isn't just wine per se that benefits health but any type of alcohol in moderation. Equally important are other factors such as lifestyle and type of fat consumed.

However, the strongest evidence is still in the red wine camp. Many studies and scientific research conducted in countries as far afield as Japan, China, Australia, the United States, Great Britain and France have found that red wine, in moderation, is linked to overall cardiovascular and metabolic well-being. A few glasses of red wine a day can decrease your chances of heart disease and may even make you a happier person!

More recently, specific antioxidants in red wine such as resveratrol and procyanidins have been identified and even packaged in pill form by pharmaceutical companies as antioxidants for maintaining good health and one's youth. While the quantity required for maximum benefit is still being researched and the benefits appear to vary widely by individual, there are plenty of non-health reasons to enjoy wine: it simply tastes good and enhances the dining experience.

Enjoying and taking pleasure in wine (in moderation) is one of the 'secrets' of the French relationship with food. Part of taking pleasure in food and wine means slowing down and relishing the moment. Since I have been in France, I am spending at least twice as long on my evening meals as I would back in Hong Kong. Partly, this is because service is slow when you dine out, but even when the meals are prepared at home, the fresh, seasonal ingredients from the market are so delicious that I find myself savouring them, enjoying each mouthful. When food is delicious, it is mentally, emotionally and physically satisfying - like the wonderful tomatoes from the Sunday market, the sweet, juicy rock melons and the crunchy, tasty green beans. When you add wine to the combination, it becomes a moment to savour.

I have a few more weeks before I leave Paris and I am not at all concerned about the fatty foods I am enjoying daily. I adore my croissants in the morning and I indulge in fresh baguettes with butter every day. Of course wine is obligatory - resveratrol and procyanidins are my daily vitamins.

Jeannie Cho Lee is the first Asian Master of Wine. E-mail her at [email protected]. Find her at www.asianpalate.com

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