Many cultures appreciate liver, especially the Chinese, French, Italian and Greek. Whether pan-fried, grilled or poached, liver should be slightly pink in the middle, leaving it springy and succulent. The Chinese dish of pig's liver poached in supreme soup is quite clever: the liver, cooked gently in the broth, imparts flavour while sharing its richness with the flavourful spinach. Use thick slices of liver so they don't overcook. A wine to accompany this dish needs to respect the texture and richness of the liver. Wines with strong tannins or woody tones will make the liver taste coarse.
Wooing Tree Pinot Noir 2008/2009, Central Otago, New Zealand
This vineyard has shot to international fame in less than five years. It's not just because of its wines, which are impeccable, but because the people behind the label have worked tirelessly to promote it. If you're wondering where the name came from, there's a large old tree in the middle of the property where locals go to ask for their lover's hand in marriage. This pinot noir is the perfect silk to wrap around the succulent liver dish. Its velvety tannins and lively fruit provide a supporting platform for the liver and savoury broth. The vibrant fruit gives the liver another dimension.
Available for HK$360 at At Style Wine (tel: 6593 1859)
Dom Perignon Rose 2000, Epernay, France
This Dom Perignon has a structure more like red wine than champagne. Champagne makers usually add between 2 per cent and 5 per cent of finished red wine to their rose champagne to pro- vide structure, colour and red fruit tones. This 2000 vintage has a whopping 20 per cent red from the grand cru vineyard of Ay. The result is an incredibly structured, silky wine that is unmistakably elegant. The wine massages the pork liver and provides support to both the liver and spinach. Try chilling this Dom Perignon less than other champagnes and it will reveal its true, classy character.
Available for HK$1,988 at Watson's Wine Cellar (tel: 2606 8828)
Shaw & Smith Adelaide Hills Shiraz 2008, Australia
This lovely wine has the perfect aromatics to pair with the liver dish. Some would say it has a Rhone style, but that's what Australians call any shiraz with finesse, good peppery notes and subtle oak flavours. This was produced in the beautiful Adelaide Hills, far from the Rhone. The wine is savoury, with classy, subtle tannins that wrap the liver in a focused parcel. The wine also has bright acidity, which works well with the supreme broth. Serve this wine cool to the touch before, during and after the pork liver.
Available for HK$249 at Oliver's (tel: 2869 5119)