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Turning the tables on service charges

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Johnny Tang is 22, has bleached blond hair, piercings and tattoos halfway up his arm. He might look like an unconventional waiter, but Tang's attitude is what really sets him apart. It's easy to see he's happy in his job and also very good at it.

Tang works at Yardbird, the trendy yakitori place in Central where a sign tells customers there's no service charge. Instead, patrons are asked to consider the service they receive and leave what they think is an acceptable tip.

Yardbird positions itself as a New York-style casual restaurant, a local establishment that focuses more on working hard to build up and retain a loyal clientele than turning over a succession of new covers nightly.

Its move to let customers decide what they think its service is worth is risky. Hong Kong has no official or government policy in place regarding tips, but most restaurants employ a 10 per cent service charge. 'I call that a profit charge,' says Matt Abergel, the chef/owner of Yardbird.

Despite Hong Kong's reputation as a service centre, there's ample evidence to suggest its service leaves a lot to be desired. This is partly because patrons of Chinese restaurants traditionally venture out for the quality of the food rather than the service, says a report by Polytechnic University's School of Hotel and Tourism Management.

Now the tide may be turning. As food culture and disposable income have grown, more people travel overseas and experience different service levels, or dine at pricier places where good service should be a given.

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