Pros: the menu is limited but tempting, listing traditional French dishes such as ile flottante (meringue with caramel and cr?me anglaise) and sausage in brioche.

Cons: our table was tightly sandwiched between two others, which meant we kept clashing the backs of our chairs with other diners, and our request to be moved was denied even though another table was free. Both mains came with the same vegetables: a dull mixture of carrots, zucchini, white radish and peas.

Recommended dishes: a starter portion (also available as a main) of steak tartare was enjoyable: the meat - well-seasoned and not minced too finely - came with potatoes roasted in goose fat and a fresh salad. Black pudding with mashed potatoes and apples was rich and satisfying. The only fault was that the casing of the sausage was slightly rubbery, but the filling was soft and well-flavoured. The duck leg confit was tender, but the skin should have been crisper. The blueberry tart had been heated, which was a nice touch, and served with cr?me anglaise.

What else? Another branch of Chez Patrick recently opened in Stanley (tel: 2683 5115). A more upscale version is located on Peel Street (tel: 2541 1401).