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TURNING back time

Taking good care of your complexion requires a different approach as you age. Much like life itself, what you need at 50 is not the same as you did at 20.

Specialists say the key is finding products with the most appropriate ingredients for your age - and sticking to a regimen that works for your lifestyle.

The reason? If you do too little in your 20s, your skin can become dry and damaged from exposure to sun, pollution and stress, with early signs of ageing greeting your reflection. But if you overdo it with harsh active ingredients better suited to a 40-something, you could wake up to redness and peeling.

But while ways of approaching a good home-care routine differ depending on age, vital daily habits should be used by us all, namely sunscreen, plenty of water and vegetables, and the right hydration for your skin type, no matter what.

'Many people reaching their 30s have probably noticed some aspect of skin ageing, but this will vary with regards to their genetic make-up, skin colour, susceptibility to sun damage and the amount of sun they have had in the past,' says Gavin Chan, a dermatologist with SkinCentral.

'Reducing further sun damage and keeping the skin well hydrated are essential, while various skincare products may help to treat and improve signs of skin ageing.'

But when it comes to over-the-counter potions and lotions, exciting and effective ingredients are available to transform skin of all ages and types. From dryness and acne to fine lines and sagging, choosing a product tailored to suit your age and requirements is easier now than ever before.

For those in their 30s and older, antioxidants are the answer to their skin-ageing prayers. 'Topical antioxidants have been developed to help reduce and neutralise the free radicals involved in skin damage from UV [ultraviolet] radiation,' Chan says. 'Examples include vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid, coffeeberry and green tea.' Research suggests combinations of antioxidants may have synergistic effects, Chan adds. One study has shown the topical application of a combination of vitamins C and E with a plant antioxidant ferulic acid can supplement the skin's own antioxidant pool to protect against UV-induced damage from within.

From the age of 20, Chan says a daily moisturiser is essential to keep skin hydrated, as it plumps it up and reduces fine lines. This goes for oily and dry skin types, but oily types should use water-based creams and oil-free moisturisers.

Nutrient-rich choices are available from brands such as La Mer, which offers four formulations of its moisturisers, from an oil-absorbing lotion perfect for someone in their 20s to the rich Cr?me de la Mer to fortify and renew ageing skin.

This advice is echoed by Anna Orvay, founder of the Sense of Touch Day Spa group. 'In my generation, in our 20s, we thought we could just use soap,' she says.

'But now they are very discerning in their 20s. They are well informed.'

'They go to the gym and eat healthy food. Generation Y has lots of choices. They should, however, start investing in antioxidants. Hyaluronic acid as an ingredient in a moisturiser or serum is very good at absorbing moisture.'

Comprising nine products from a day cream with a sun protection factor of 15 to an eye serum and hand cream, the new Restylane Skincare line is designed to complement its line of fillers. It features hyaluronic acid to improve skin volume and reduce wrinkles, with tiny crystal-shaped particles to reflect light.

Until you turn 30, the production of collagen is still good, so basic skincare is enough - cleanse, tone, moisturise and dab on some eye cream.

'Eye cream in your 20s is important as that's where premature ageing does begin, especially for those who use a lot of facial expressions,' Orvay says.

However, she says 20-somethings are too young for retinol as there is enough collagen still being produced to keep skin plumped and fresh. 'Wait until you're in your 30s to get help with collagen production. They do irritate, but more leathery skin needs it.'

Est?e Lauder's Resilience Lift products contain light-responsive enzyme (plankton extract), mineral (malachite) and plant extract (mimosa) to help support the skin's natural collagen and elastin production.

According to Clinique dermatologist Dr David Orentreich, this is also the time when uneven skin tone can lead to the first signs of ageing. Its Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector is designed to gradually improve hyperpigmentation over four to six weeks. In your 40s and 50s, in-spa peels are ideal for brightening skin and smoothing lines. Natura Bisse, for example, has a glycolic acid peel treatment with AHA strength of 30, a medium strength for novices.

Orvay says that Aromatherapy Associates also has an effective anti-ageing product called Fine Line Face Oil. This serum uses almost pure Moroccan rose, known to be good for any age range and particularly beneficial for over-40s as it is very concentrated.

'There are very little molecules that penetrate through the skin and get to the mid layers, and it's not oily, so you can wear make-up over it and it won't melt off in Hong Kong's hot weather,' she says. 'It's great for high air conditioning temperatures that can dry out skin. Dry skin results in ageing skin.'

Orvay also advises to never overscrub - at any age - as skin becomes sensitised. Scrubs should be used regularly but not every day. 'If you have oily skin, there can be more breakouts if you scrub too much. The skin dries out and it produces oil to stop it from drying, leading to more breakouts.'

As you move through your 40s and 50s, the big guns - topical retinoids - are here to help. They contain derivatives of vitamin A, now a common ingredient to stave off harsher forms of ageing. Retinoids include tretinoin, retinol, retinyl and retinoic acid. Tretinoin, Chan says, and is effective at improving wrinkles, roughness and mottled pigmentation, plus treating collagen loss caused by sun damage.

'However, they may cause skin irritation, peeling and redness and should be avoided during pregnancy,' Chan says. High doses of vitamin A can harm the foetus.

Elsewhere, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), including glycolic acids and lactic acid, help exfoliate the outer dead skin layer, reduce pore clogging and hydrate the skin. Lower-strength versions can be used as early as your 20s as a preventative measure. If you do have signs of ageing in your 30s or 40s, it's not too late to bring in AHAs.

'Research also suggests that AHAs are useful in reversing sun damage and stimulating collagen production in the skin,' Chan says. 'Lower-strength AHA products are available for use at home, while higher-strength AHAs are used for chemical peels at the physician's clinic for overall skin textural enhancement with minimal downtime to help keep the skin looking young.'

The most common advice for all ages is sun protection, whether that be a product on its own or included in a daily moisturiser. Chan says broad spectrum sunscreens - SPF 30+, protecting against UVA and UVB - should be applied to the face and other exposed areas on a regular basis, even on cloudy days. 'When outdoors for extended periods, reapply every two to three hours. Wide-brimmed hats, shade caps and protective clothing also help.'

Your routine should be kept simple, especially when you're working hard at the office or bringing up a family. If a busy person tries to embark on a time-consuming daily routine, it's unlikely they will stick to it.

'I honestly wish I had more time to indulge in pampering facials. In your 40s, you need all the help you can get,' says radio talk show host Crystal Kwok. 'I do the occasional scrub and mask, and sunscreen is a must.'

Last but not least, there is, of course, what you eat and drink at any age, as a balanced diet nourishes the skin. 'If they don't take care of their body, then the skincare won't work out,' Orvay says. 'Nourishing food for skin include green leafy vegetables [they act as antioxidants], and pomegranate juice is packed with antioxidants.'

Kwok agrees: 'Diet is hugely important. It sounds corny but radiance comes from inside.'

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