G/F Lockhart House, 440 Jaffe Road, Causeway Bay
Tel: 2836 9999
Open: 11am-3pm, 6pm until late
Price: about HK$300 without drinks and the service charge.
Ambience: tanks holding fish, lobsters, crabs and turtles are at the entrance. Tables are large and set comfortably apart. We've eaten here several times, and it's quiet during 'normal' dinner hours, but it seems to get busier late at night. Service is friendly and helpful.
Pros: the food. You can order refined, beautifully cooked traditional Cantonese dishes ranging from inexpensive (eggplant with pork and salted fish in clay pot, fried bean curd) to luxe (one of my favourite versions of flower crab steamed with egg white, hua diao wine and chicken fat).
Cons: we didn't have any problems.
Recommended dishes: the gum chin gai - golden coin chicken (glazed, roasted pork meat, pork fat and chicken liver between two thin, steamed buns, HK$38 each) is the ultimate sandwich. Although small, it's dense, packed with flavour and very filling. Crab roe xiao long bao (HK$38 each) had a filling that was light and soupy. The roast suckling pig (HK$598 for half) was one of the best we've tasted. It was cooked perfectly so that the crackling-crisp skin was evenly bronzed. It's served as two courses: the skin is cut into large squares and served with spring onions and steamed bread, then the carcass is taken away and chopped into pieces so we could enjoy the well-seasoned meat. The two clay pot dishes we ordered were memorably delicious: lettuce with intensely flavoured fermented shrimp paste (HK$98), and tender, sweet fried oysters with ginger and spring onion (HK$188). Light crispy dough fritters (HK$28) came piled on a plate and were served with coconut and sugar, rather than the more usual honey sauce - a variation we liked very much.
What else? Several dishes need to be pre-ordered, including the golden coin chicken, and (usually) the suckling pig (we didn't pre-order but arrived early so they had enough).