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Accounting for taste

Reading Time:19 minutes
Why you can trust SCMP
Jing Zhang

Paris

Why bother traipsing around Hollywood when you can celeb watch at Paris Fashion Week? Veterans such as Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada and Jean Paul Gaultier were joined by newcomers such as Opening Ceremony duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim and Clare Waight Keller for Chloe. Joining the front-row regulars, American twins Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen hosted an event for their accessories label 'the Row' and A-listers witnessed the much-hyped yet lukewarm debut of Kanye West's high-fashion label.

The French capital's cutting-edge style was just the thing to make us temporarily forget about the world's economic worries. Although some collections seemed strangely heavy and autumnal, others displayed unreserved enthusiasm that served as a welcome reminder of fashion's uplifting powers.

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The Sonia Rykiel girl came down a neon-yellow catwalk all girlish sunshine and positivity. Along with her were Kenzo's new design team, who went with bold, bright colour blocks and modern shapes.

White-hot styles made this virginal shade the colour of next season, as shown at Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Celine, Commes des Garcons and Hussein Chalayan. Ice cream hues and girlish pleating were also big runway hits, giving us a happy, candy-coloured outlook, while sheer, light, see-through fabrics put a spring back in our step.

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Laid-back elegance and wider shapes reigned - as waistlines dropped to the hips in an ode to the roaring 20s. Softer, relaxed vibes and looser silhouettes hinted that fashion is moving in an easier, more flippant direction, while favourite fabrics organza, broderie anglais and leather brought home the concept of contrast.

The creative spectrum here ranged from the minimalist camp, including avant-garde designer Hussein Chalayan who did ultra-modern drop-waist dresses in sorbet colours and sinister dark floral print, to eccentrics such as Manish Arora (newly installed at Paco Rabanne) and Vivienne Westwood.

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