Last week the eyes of the beauty world were focused on Hong Kong as Cosmoprof Asia, the region's biggest beauty show, took up residence at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Hundreds of beauty brands from around the world unveiled products that will be hitting stores in the next few months.
So what can we expect next year?
Well, if you are looking for the next generation in skincare, expect to see the words 'stem cell' on the product label. Stem cell extracts are causing a buzz now, with claims ranging from skin rejuvenation to protection against the elements.
Chiara Ambra was among the brands touting the technology at the fair. The company has worked with a Swiss research laboratory to create a range that promises beauty benefits by using plant stem cell ingredients. Its Regeneration Multi Stem Cell 24hr Cream (HK$980) and Eye Gel (HK$680), for example, promise to regenerate and protect skin and smooth out wrinkles. Its new X-treme anti-cellulite cream, available in Hong Kong early next year, apparently helps to slim and tone thighs.
The technology behind stem cell products is complex. But don't be blinded by the science. 'The term 'stem cell' is a big trend in skincare at the moment, but it has been misused,' says Mike Chan, CEO of ingredients company Lab Dom, which specialises in stem cell extracts. 'Basically, it's impossible to have live stem cells in a cream - they need to be cultivated in a laboratory. So products which claim this are ineffective.'
'It's a cloudy area,' adds Beata Hurst, sales and marketing manager at Swiss research laboratory Mibelle Biochemistry, which worked with Chiara Ambra. 'Many brands are interested in the science of stem cells but an actual stem cell would be too large to penetrate the skin.'
While the beauty industry has yet to demonstrate whether stem cell technology is a great new advance in anti-ageing or mere hype, Hurst recommends looking out for the words 'stem cell extract' if you plan to buy these kinds of products. It's also wise to check out a brand's website for more information about the ingredients, and to see the clinical tests.