Pros: the modern Thai dishes sound interesting, and they're attractively presented.

Cons: the menu is too extensive, making it difficult to choose. I asked that our food be served slowly because there wasn't much room on the tiny tables, but three dishes came in quick succession. We've enjoyed several meals at the Greyhound Cafes in Bangkok, but the food here wasn't as good as we remember it to be. The spicy spaghetti Thai-style (cooked with beef, chicken or seafood, chillies, green peppercorns and basil leaves, HK$128) was a dish we always order at the Bangkok Greyhounds. The spaghetti was dry and the green peppercorns hadn't infused any of their flavour into the dish. Noodles with Thai braised beef come with broth, or with soup on the side; we chose the latter (HK$88). The beef was very tender, but the noodles - with bush beans, dried shrimp, chilli sauce and pork crisps (which the kitchen forgot to put on ours) - were dry and dull, even though we added chilli flakes, sugar and fish sauce.

Recommended dishes: Greyhound famous fried chicken wings (HK$68) are well fried, so they have crisp skin and moist meat. Complicated noodles (HK$108) was the best dish of the night. The components - noodle sheets, lettuce leaves, minced pork sauce and chilli sauce - are served separately, and it's up to the diner to assemble the ingredients into intense, pungent mouthfuls. Minced chicken with sweet basil, hot chillies and rice (HK$128) would have been a good dish, but was marred by the overcooked fried egg, which had a firm yolk, and lumps of hard rice.

What else? Greyhound Cafe is part of the Gaia Group of restaurants. We were offered our choice of seatings - at 6.30pm or 8pm.