Wong Fung

PUBLISHED : Thursday, 24 November, 2011, 12:00am
UPDATED : Thursday, 24 November, 2011, 12:00am

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Shop A, G/F Bo Fung Mansion, 9-11 St Francis Street, Wan Chai
Tel: 2871 3388
Open: noon-1am
Cuisine: Chinese-style kushiyaki (grilled skewers)

Price: about HK$350 without drinks and the service charge

Ambience: casual. The long room has a large open kitchen, around which is counter seating, with tables for larger groups.

Pros: the servers were friendly.

Cons: the meat dishes were not as good as the seafood, and some of the food was a little oily. Honey chicken wings (HK$36) tasted like the supermarket type you buy in barbecue packs. Beef spare ribs (HK$48) and Australian lamb chops (HK$78) were tough.

Recommended dishes: soft-shell crab salad (HK$68) was a substantial serving of mixed greens and a quartered fried crab, lightly dressed with a wasabi-flavoured dressing. Sea king razor clams (HK$88 for two) had been perfectly cooked, so the clam meat was tender. Seasonal fish (HK$148) - served whole except for the bones - was another winner, with moist meat enhanced by spring onions. Eel fillet (HK$68) was simply grilled without the thick sauce usually used at Japanese restaurants; we liked the fatty meat that contrasted with the crisp/chewy skin. We liked both 'balls' that we tasted:the special beef ball cakes (HK$36), which were more like flat patties and tender handmade fish balls (HK$36).We ended the meal with one of my favourite dishes: traditional pork fat steamed rice with pork floss (HK$25). Lightly seasoned with soy sauce and spring onions, this was pure comfort food, and tasted so good, I wished I'd ordered two bowls instead of just one.

What else? There's space at the back of the restaurant for private parties - on the night we visited, the model Qi Qi was there.