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Give me a break

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Why you can trust SCMP
Alf Alderson

That hackneyed old phrase 'Europe's answer to Hawaii' has been used for decades to describe one big wave spot after another, but of all of them, the island of Madeira has one of the strongest claims to the title.

Apart from the fact that the waves washing around this verdant rock poking up from the deep blue Atlantic are not as warm as those of Hawaii, it could be argued that Madeira is better as a surfer's winter bolt hole, for despite regular media exposure, the island's world-class giant point breaks rarely get anywhere nearly as busy as those of surfing's spiritual home.

This is perhaps because there's no history of surf culture here, with breaks like Jardim do Mar and Paul do Mar on the southwest coast first being surfed less than 20 years ago, while spots such as Ribeira da Janela on the north coast are even newer discoveries.

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What's more, the spectacular coastline of Madeira still holds many more wave-riding secrets and will probably continue to do so for a long time since so much of it is inaccessible, fringed by mighty sea cliffs and beaten by swells that only expert boatmen can expect to negotiate safely.

However, there's little point in visiting the Portuguese enclave of Madeira if your idea of good waves is fun, head-high peaks because the surf here doesn't come alive until the waves are well over head high. Intense winter storms in the North Atlantic propel huge swells onto Madeira's shores and, combined with offshore trade winds blowing from nearby North Africa, present experienced surfers with sun-kissed, monster walls of water.

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There are still not that many people surfing here since the sport is such a recent introduction, and if you decide to take on Madeira's demanding waves, you'll be surfing them among a mixed and eclectic bunch of wave riders from Britain, Norway, Germany and the United States, with, as yet, just the occasional local.

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