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Ozawa

Shop C, 49 Graham Street, Central
Tel: 2526 4828
Open: Monday-Saturday noon-10.30pm
Cuisine: Japanese

Price: about HK$400 without drinks and the service charge.

Ambience: this restaurant has fewer than 30 seats, including two at the tiny sushi bar. Seats are so close you can hear the conversations of neighbouring diners. Tables are small, but there wasn't any problem with the tabletop getting too crowded with dishes because the food was served at a good pace.

Pros: our server was excellent- she knew the menu, told us when we had ordered enough, and was thoughtful and observant, pointing out that there was no need to order ark shell clam sushi because the shellfish was on the sashimi platter. Although the selection of raw seafood wasn't that extensive (possibly because it was the quiet week between Christmas and New Year), the sushi and sashimi dishes were fresh and of top quality. The menu was carefully pared down to the essentials, making it easy to choose from.

Cons: the tempura in the tempura inaniwa udon (HK$90) was slightly oily, and the broth could have been hotter.

Recommended dishes: the deluxe sashimi platter (HK$450) held a glistening, generously portioned assortment of five - delicate sayori fillets; tender amaebi (sweet shrimp); crunchy, sweet, ark shell clam; huge, creamy tongues of sea urchin; and thick slices of toro, all served with fresh wasabi. We enjoyed the yellowtail sushi (HK$64) and tuna sushi (HK$100), which were served separately, in the correct order of the lighter yellowtail first, followed by the richer tuna. Ox-tongue skewer (HK$50) was tender, although it could have used a little more charring. Grilled skewers of tsukune (chicken meatballs, HK$45) were well seasoned and crunchy with the usual addition of minced cartilage.

What else? The sake and drinks menu is quite limited.

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