Duck Shing Ho Egg Rolls
Tell any Hongkonger that you're on the hunt for egg rolls and nine times out of 10 they will direct you to 'the one in North Point'. As soon as Mid-Autumn Festival ends, you'll see queues outside this shop with people placing orders for Lunar New Year, and they sell out within hours. These preservative-free tuiles have the fragrance of eggs, and are rolled lightly to retain the crispness of each layer, although in some cases the layers are too tightly compressed.
HK$53, Duck Shing Ho, 64 Java Road, North Point
Tai Cheong Butter Eggrolls
Made by the bakery of egg tart fame, these light, feathery biscuits look a little unappetising with their pale lemony hue, despite carotene being added to enhance the colour. Take a bite, however, and any doubts disappear as quickly as the flaky pastry dissolves in your mouth. It might be a tad too sweet for some tastes, but with its buttery aroma (other shortenings are also used), lacy ends and airy layers, Tai Cheong is a strong contender.
HK$56, Tai Cheong, citywide
October Fifth Bakery Egg Rolls
These golden brown beauties aren't the lightest, but the blend of egg and butter is balanced and subtle. And rather than breaking into shards like most, they tend to crumble into fine grains. The small cardboard boxes in which they are sold might seem less presentable than classic metal tins as gifts, but for enthusiasts one advantage is that they are on sale at supermarkets all year round and come in handy foil packs of three.
HK$28, Wellcome, citywide
Kee Wah Butter Eggrolls
Despite the company's focus on traditional Chinese baked goods, Kee Wah's egg rolls are smaller and thinner than most. They are about as thick as a finger, with thinner layers that have fewer holes and are hence less like lace. The result is a very crisp but brittle and dry product, like water biscuits, compared to shortbread. They are also quite sugary and lack the rich, butter and eggy fragrance you expect. The off-white colour doesn't help, either.
HK$58, Kee Wah, citywide
Wing Wah Egg Roll
Don't get too excited about the retro red and violet tin. Known for its classic Chinese pastries, such as mooncakes and the flaky wife's cake, Wing Wah's egg rolls are a disappointment. With a colour reminiscent of cardboard, the layers are thick, hard and rolled much too tightly. Each bite requires effort, which is not repaid by the taste. The sweetness is overwhelming and there is no aroma to speak of. It's also the most expensive of the five. Avoid.
HK$60, Wing Wah, citywide