Runway success

Rick Owens

It was a thrilling and fresh performance from Owens, who put on a sleek display of figure-defining constructions. The silhouette was longer and leaner - skintight sleeves elongated the arms. Cropped double-breasted jackets were simply pinned back by one button so that it bisected the middle of the abdomen - creating a new shape. High-rise trousers featured a drop-crotch falling mid-thigh.

Leather may have been his guiding light, but unexpected shaggy textures also made up the winter vocabulary. There was a lightness of touch throughout the collection, including a translucent blue top which was artfully draped so that it looked steely but liquid.

Miharayasuhiro

The Japanese designer is noted for his thoughtful constructions. But in this instance, it was his use of ancient Japanese Nishijin-ori brocade that set him apart from the rest. Sticking to the military trend seen throughout the autumn and winter collection - camouflage suits using this technique shone, literally. Meanwhile, on jackets and trousers, details on the inside and outside cuffs and sleeves made statements too - like the embroidered dragon motifs.

Commes des Garcons