18 Wan King Path, Sai Kung
Tel: 2791 1929
Cuisine: steak and seafood
Price: about HK$350 per person without drinks and the 10 per cent service charge.
Ambience: the interior is comfortable but forgettable. That it belongs to Castelo Concepts (whose stable of restaurants includes Jaspa's and Pepperoni's in Sai Kung and other locations, as well as Wagyu and Cru in Central) is obvious by the black and white chairs outside. Diners choose the sauce they want with their meals: the 11 include bearnaise, roquefort and green peppercorn.
Pros: the staff are cheerful, helpful and attentive. Our waiter found it no trouble keeping my glass of hot water topped up and providing a heater because we were seated by the entrance.
Cons: in general, there were no surprises, although we would have appreciated more sauce with the New Zealand green shell mussels (HK$130). The music was too loud.
Recommended: the parmesan and herb crusted rack of lamb (HK$230) was well cooked and just how my guest had asked for it: medium. The chef had not gone overboard with the garlic, rosemary and basil, and the substantial serving, which included grilled vegetables, was promptly polished off. My barramundi (HK$210), in a garlic, lemon and caper sauce, was smooth and delicious grilled, especially with a mound of wasabi mashed potatoes, which added a vital kick. Like the two mains the house salad (HK$98) was large, with quality ingredients including fresh rocket, goat cheese and pine nuts. Because of the generous helpings we had no room for sweets.
What else? Breakfast is served from 8am, and a three-course set lunch for HK$88 is available on weekdays.