Cons: it could be an opening kink, but menu presentation was a bit of a mess, making it difficult to order. The main ? la carte menu was nicely printed with English 'subtitles', but it was then supplemented by five A4 sheets of different colour and items with a jumble of daily specials, seafood specials, home-style specials and set dinners for four to 12, written in Chinese only. We relied on the waiter's recommendations, most of which were sound; the only thing we were disappointed in was the 'famous' char siu (HK$108), which was coated in a syrupy sauce.

Recommended dishes: the pre-ordered double-boiled soup with estuary garoupa (HK$258) was deliciously warming; the lean pork base tempered the condensed river-fish sweetness, and the Chinese angelica root gave it a herbal finish without being overpowering. We also enjoyed the braised chicken with red scallions (HK$188), which had delicately tender meat under a pile of lightly fried and addictively sweet scallion slices. The serving of braised jade melon with mixed fungi and bamboo pith (HK$93) was generous. And while the seasoning was bland we enjoyed the textures.

What else? The manager urged us to come back for the dim sum, but the Mikiki is hardly an obvious choice for a weekend get-together unless you live in the area.