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How Parisian panache caught the eye of modern women

Many have long considered the French the undisputed kings of luxury fashion - we have them to thank for Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Christian Dior, Hermes, Yves Saint Laurent and Lanvin. But now the country is capturing a new segment of the market with contemporary brands with broad appeal to a new generation of women.

Following in the footsteps of designers such as Isabel Marant and Vanessa Bruno, who rose to fame in the 1990s, this growing group of hip brands are distinctly Parisian in style, but universal in appeal.

'This French contemporary wave is a recent phenomenon which offers a fashionable style at a good price,' says French fashion maven Maria Luisa Poumaillou, founder of the Maria Luisa boutiques. 'It is less obnoxious and more playful than luxury brands - it's the bridge between fast fashion and high fashion.

'These brands are popular because they prove that it is possible to be stylish - even directional sometimes - without being too dramatically expensive.'

After successfully capturing the market in Europe, many of these brands have turned their attention East towards Hong Kong. It began with Rue Madame, a multilabel boutique which opened in 2010, stocking high street brands such as Maje and Sandro. Soon locals were able to shop at popular Parisian boutiques, including Zadig & Voltaire, American Vintage, Repetto and, more recently, Carven.

'In terms of image, the French are very lucky to benefit from an amazing cultural heritage, especially when it comes to fashion,' says Ariane Zagury, founder of Rue Madame.

'Also, there has been a trend in France for French women to be very feminine and adopt fashion codes while being casual. This very subtle mix of femininity and coolness is really specific to French brands. Hong Kong women have the same way of life and are also looking for beautiful clothes.'

American Vintage founder Mickael Azoulay calls Hong Kong one of the most sophisticated markets in the world. 'We have had a presence here for a few years and felt that it was the right time to enter a new phase and expand,' he says. 'Our customers like simple and trendy clothes which fit them well.'

Aside from the price, the appeal boils down to wearability.

'The fitting, price point and quality are decisive, but these brands are good at bringing solutions,' Zagury says. 'French brands offer some looks that are easy to carry and fashionable.'

Writer and stylist Lucienne Leung says that she has become a fan of French labels because they integrate easily into her wardrobe. 'I'm tired of the ridiculously fast fashion cycle and these brands provide simple, chic, up-to-date tailoring with good-enough fabrics, but not too trendy. They are usually more toned down than the designer versions, but better made than the high street ones,' she says.

This season, Francophiles have plenty of new labels to choose from, including Rodier, a heritage brand founded in 1850 that recently underwent a revamp. Other notables include Innamorato, a brand launched by Bonpoint alumnus Christine Innamorato and Laurence Dolige, who is known for reinventing classics.

Does the rise of contemporary labels signal the end of luxury French fashion?

'They are very different markets and I do not see any competition between them, but mutual effects,' Zagury says. 'Most of the luxury brands take roots in long-term heritage and amazing craftsmanship, whereas contemporary brands are more a way of life, a feeling for today.'

Azoulay says the two tiers are keeping the French fashion industry bouyant. 'It's normal to see people wearing a luxurious piece together with a simple, contemporary item,' he says. 'This is how fashion works today.'

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