Ticking the boxes

The wine list, along with the menu, gives a customer insight into what is important to a restaurant.

How does a sommelier make his wine list? It's not easy - a sommelier needs to work with the chef to make sure that the wines he chooses are compatible with the menu. There needs to be an appropriate range of flavours and colours (red, white, sparkling and sweet). A good price range is paramount. There must be recognisable names for a guest's comfort, and the big names for customers who want to show off on special occasions. It's natural enough for the sommelier to also want to show off what he likes, so the list will probably have a number of selections that reflect what he's passionate about. But it wouldn't make economic sense to compile a list that has all his favourites (which might be esoteric), plus he has the bean counters in the back, watching over his shoulder to check the wines are selling; after all, keeping enough wine to stock a restaurant is a big investment.

So where does the poor sommelier start?

First, with the food. If the cuisine is from a country that has a long tradition of quality winemaking, it's logical - and safe - to have a range of bottles from that country - or even from a specific region which the restaurant specialises in.

There needs to be a choice of wine for each dish, at various price points. Each wine should be able to pair with at least six dishes from the menu. Wines on the list should be in various 'weights' - from light and fruity, to intense and full bodied, so customers can choose what they like. Pricing is key. Hong Kong diners are a pretty savvy bunch when it comes to the cost of wines, as they've been spoilt for choice since the abolition of wine duties. There has been a huge influx of distributors and shops in Hong Kong, with a corresponding increase in selection and range.

Every list needs a few 'show pony' bottles. These can be wines that have amazing reviews and/or are blue-chip wines, such as the first growth bordeaux. Wines by the glass often seem an afterthought - although they shouldn't be. These selections are the 'little black dresses' on a wine list, which means they should go with most of the dishes on the menu. The criteria for this? The wine has to be well priced and retain its aromas and flavours for at least a day after being opened, and have a familiar name. This is usually where the accountants would expect the best margins - the price for five or six by-the-glass pours will cost more than if the customer orders the whole bottle. A sommelier's choice on wines by the glass is often influenced by what he is offered by his wholesalers - discounts, special promotions, an upcoming winemaker's visit, all play a part in his selection.