Tin Lung Heen
102/F The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: 2263 2270
Open: noon-2.30pm (Saturday, Sunday and public holidays 11.30am-3pm), 6pm-10.30pm
Price: if you order carefully and skip the dried seafood and bird's nest categories, you can get out for about HK$500, without drinks or the service charge.
Ambience: the dining room, with dark wood and burgundy accents, is formal but comfortable, with large tables and deep chairs. A chandelier hangs from the high ceiling but the focus of the room is the fantastic view.
Pros: we asked for - and received - a window table. For the most part, we liked the food, especially the starters and desserts. All dishes were piping hot.
Cons: deep-fried frog legs with mustard (HK$98) paled in comparison with our other appetisers. The mustard coating smelled and tasted like Colman's, and although it didn't overwhelm, it was uninteresting after a few bites. The garoupa fillet with chives and conpoy (HK$488) wasn't as interesting as it sounded - the only dish we didn't finish.
Recommended dishes: the wok-fried soft-shell crab with black pepper and osmanthus honey (HK$98) was crisp outside and soft and moist within, and the other flavours didn't overwhelm the sweetness of the crab. My favourite dish was char-grilled barbecued Iberian pork (HK$218). Although it could have used more char, the meat was wonderfully succulent and tender. I loved the smoky flavours of the stir-fried sliced pigeon with morel mushrooms and lotus bulb (HK$268), although one guest disliked it. Desserts were a hit. Traditional baked egg custard tarts with bird's nest (HK$68) had flaky pastry and a delicate, smooth custard that contrasted with the subtle crunch of the bird's nest topping. Better were the deep-fried sesame dumplings (HK$45), which had a balanced custard filling with a hint of salted egg yolk.
What else? If you want a window table, ask for it when you book, although even then, they might not be able to accommodate the request.