For a dish of fried rice with crab, conpoy and egg white to be a success, fresh crab meat is vital. The dish has complementary textures that are ever so slightly varied, with chewy conpoy (dried scallop), succulent crab meat and sweet, tender egg white. When mixed with the fried rice, random bites of the various ingredients will take you to textural heaven. In preparation, the conpoy needs to be soaked, then finely shredd-ed and carefully fried to intensify the iodine richness and salty sea tang. Drinks that go best with this seemingly simple (but actu-ally quite intricate) dish need restrained texture but defined flavours. The wider the flavour, the better the result.
Hugel Jubilee Riesling 2007, Alsace, France
This Hugel Jubilee riesling is, frankly, too cheap for the quality of it. It has high-toned perfume, a solid core of fruit and it's per-fectly poised and balanced, with a long finish. Although there are small vintage variations in Alsace, the region is one of the most reliable areas in France for white wines. This riesling is delicious with the fried rice dish. Insist that the cooks make it with extra ginger to liven up the rice, then taste as the textures and flavours merge seamlessly.
Available for HK$415 at Summergate Fine Wines (tel: 2545 4100) Dom Perignon 2003, Epernay, France
Many people who don't understand champagne shake their heads in disbelief, wondering how a 'hot' year such as 2003 can produce a deluxe cuvee of the stature of Dom Perignon. However, the grape growers and winemakers of the champagne region were thrilled at the quality of fruit that year. The Dom Perignon 2003 is in stark contrast to the 2002, which is much more traditional, lean and tall. The 2003 is deliciously elegant, with plenty of depth and the long-lasting Dom Perignon trademark finish; with lesser champagnes, the flavours were cooked away in the vineyard. It goes to show that great champagne challenges conventional wisdom. This is an undeniably great drink and a solid accompaniment to the crab and conpoy dish - and again, ask for extra ginger as a catalyst to link the flavours. The resilient texture of the rice is comparable to the silky gas of the Dom Perignon.
Available for HK$1,038 at Watson's Wine Cellar (tel: 2606 8828) Tsingtao beer, China
Ah, good old Tsingtao - just pure freshness and the vibrancy of the bottling is remarkable. It's heady without being intense, and goes well with the fried rice. The hoppiness of the beer heightens the sea succulence of the crab and conpoy, while the fluffy egg white soaks up the beer's excess gas, making it more silky and enjoyable.
Available for HK$18.70 (for a 640ml bottle) at 7-Eleven
Simon Tam is Christie's head of wine, China. Flavour Colours, his Chinese food and wine pairing app, can be found on www.iwinecentre.com/iwine-en/flavour-colours.php.