Graze a trail through an eclectic neighbourhood

Tai Hang, squeezed between Causeway Bay and Tin Hau, is one of Hong Kong's up-and-coming neighbourhoods. It has been flourishing for years and tastemakers have even suggested it might become the next Lan Kwai Fong.

So far that hasn't happened, but there has been some gentrification. The car repair shops are still there, alongside cha chaan teng and fruit stalls. But now there are new restaurants from around the world. Ramen, pho, Thai food, sunny cafes that bake their own bread, and pizza are all available within a few blocks. Hip and high-end concept stores are popping up for shoppers with a craving for Iberico ham or a small jar of custom-made sweets with their name on them.

If you're exploring the area, head out from the Tin Hau MTR station and follow the signs to the Metropark Hotel. Just a few doors down is Cheng Kee Chiu Chow Restaurant (G/F, 142 Tung Lo Wan Road, tel: 2578 8179). This hole-in-the-wall Chiu Chow outlet has developed a loyal following for its signature pig's intestine soup, oyster pancakes and braised duck.

The pig's intestine soup lives up to its reputation: a piping hot peppery broth with preserved cabbage and lots of lovely little squeaky bits of intestine. This is one of Hong Kong's great hangover cures. The waiter threw in a side of spiced blood curds and they were equally delicious. The oyster pancake (HK$48) also made it worth the trip, but the duck (HK$55) didn't seem any better than elsewhere. The braised goose and braised pig's ears, prepared in the same style, were exceptional.

For a taste of Tai Hang's more modern character head down Tung Lo Wan Road, past bustling Thai and Vietnamese outlets, until you see C'est La B (shop 3, G/F, 110-114 Tung Lo Wan Road, tel: 2806 8168), the sister cafe to Bonnie Gokson's Ms B's Cakery in Central. The small cafe offers wine and champagne as well as coffee and tea. For a savoury treat you can pick from a selection of pot pies, the cheese platter (HK$180) or popcorn munch bowl (HK$55).

Be sure to save room for dessert. The apple granola crumble (HK$60) consists of baked green and Fuji apples over vanilla custard and covered with sweet, crunchy granola, then topped with grated cheddar cheese. The sweetness of the custard, the sharpness of the cheddar and the crunch of the granola come together to great effect, but the portion is small and no dessert has ever cried out louder for a scoop of ice cream.