Pros: our waitress explained the order in which we should consume our oysters, from mildest to strongest. We also appreciated her willingness not to add sugar to the dessert, which was exactly as described on the menu as 'iced pineapple after grilled' (HK$38).

Cons: this is a restaurant you dislike, like, feel ambivalent about, vow never to return to, then discover something that might coax you back. We found the menu strange: oysters, Chinese dishes and pasta are offered, along with Japanese okonomiyaki and items such as cheese bacon toast and oyster salad. There was a long wait between dishes.

Recommended: of the six oyster varieties ordered (HK$68 each), five were from France, oysters from that part of the world being in season. The other was the Scottish rock oyster, which fought off the competition and which we preferred even to the Belon 0000. The lobster with white truffle sauce (HK$288) came in two 'courses'. First was a dish of sashimi, which was joy in a mouthful. Next came the other bits of the crustacean grilled, which my guest and I picked at assiduously, not wanting to waste the tiniest shred. Grilled eggplant (HK$48), served in two long garlicky strips, was also a winner.

What else: Among the set courses is the oyster set, which costs HK$676 for 12 oysters (any kind), green salad and two glasses of white wine.