A world apart: why Ap Lei Chau is the perfect escape from Hong Kong’s bustle

Hong Kong’s Island South, which feels like a world apart from the hustle and bustle of the central business district, is filled with hidden gems.  The Aberdeen Marine Club is an exclusive retreat with an array of fine restaurants and leisure facilities, while the world-renowned Ocean Park offers family entertainment for countless tourists and locals. On the other hand, Ap Lei Chau Waterfront Promenade, which stretches along the shore of the busy Aberdeen Bay,  offers a glimpse into Hong Kong’s past.

Ap Lei Chau, a small island connected by a bridge to the south of Hong Kong, is a perfect fusion of urban development and links to the city’s fishing past.  With the imminent opening of the MTR Island South Line (East) making Ap Lei Chau more accessible to the rest of Hong Kong, the face of Ap Lei Chau is rapidly changing but a rustic, village-y feel still remains, at least for now.

The name Ap Lei Chau is derived from its long and narrow shape that looks like the tongue of a duck.  Now a largely residential island, it still retains some of Hong Kong’s traditional allure with the busy harbour that is the base for fishing vessels and sampans, while old temples and shipyards still dot the island’s shoreline.

There are breathtaking sea views ranging from the busy harbour on the one side and calmer, open seas on the other.  Yuk Kwai Shan, at 196 m, is the highest peak on the island and a rewarding hike.  The trail starts near Lei Tung Estate, leading you to panoramic views of the green hills and sea of the whole Ap Lei Chau and the smaller Ap Lei Pai island.  You will be amazed by mother nature as you take in the view of the sea and flocks of hawks circling above. 

The Ap Lei Chau Waterfront Promenade is a pleasant walk any time of the day.  It is complete with a walking trail, children’s playground, plaza and an exhibition hall that displays photos and archives of the boat building industry.  From the promenade visitors can watch fishing boats come and go, while sampans ferry passengers across short distances.  In the middle of this thoroughly modern facility, an old temple called Shui Yuet Kung, meaning “water moon palace”,  denotes the island’s fishing past and worship of the sea gods.